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Vietnam's frenetic but charmingly low-rise capital is an increasingly popular stop-over for a range of Asian and Australian destinations. Hanoi is also within easy reach of many of the country's geographical and cultural treats. Less than three hours to the east is Unesco-protected Halong Bay, with some 2,000 craggy karsts soaring from the emerald-green Gulf of Tonkin. To the mountainous west are the terraced rice paddies and hill tribes of Sapa. And Hanoi offers great value for money.
Get your bearings
The name Hanoi roughly translates as City in a Bend of the River. It is located on the banks of the Song Hong (Red River) in northern Vietnam, and was first inhabited by Emperor Ly Thai To in 1010. An exotic and chaotic city, it is home to 6.5 million people and (it's said) more than four million motorbikes. Crossing the road will test your nerve. To the north is the Old Quarter, a district of narrow alleys that's the traditional guild district. It still thrives with vendors and is where visitors are likely to spend most of their time.The days of French occupation during the 19th century are still redolent, particularly in the leafy French Quarter which is characterised by European-style boulevards. Between the two you will find the small but scenic Hoan Kiem Lake.
Take a view
The fifth floor City View Cafe at 7 Dinh Tien Hoang (cityviewcafe.com.vn; 7am-11pm daily) overlooks the serene Hoan Kiem Lake. Order a taro milkshake (70,000d/£2) and enjoy the strange juxtaposition of honking motorbikes swarming around the chaotic roundabout below you.
Take a hike
Complete the 2km loop around Hoan Kiem Lake. Starting from outside the City View Cafe, head south passing Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre at 57B Dihn Tien Hoang (thanglongwaterpuppet.org), which hosts evening performances of this old Vietnamese artform. Further on, you reach the small scarlet Huc bridge that leads to the idyllic Ngoc Son Temple (7.30am-5pm daily; 20,000d/60p) perched on an island in the lake. It's dedicated to General Tran Hung Dao, who led the triumphant battle against the Mongols in the 13th century. You can pause for thought at the Martyrs' Monument, honouring those who died fighting for Vietnam's independence, then continue along the lake's east shore on the shady pathways lined with strangler figs. Time your walk during the early morning and you may catch tai chi enthusiasts in action.
Window shopping
The Old Quarter is, essentially, a big market that still comprises centuries-old guild streets that specialise in particular products. Head to Hang Dau for shoes and the southern end of Hang Bong for silk and quality tailors. The city's high-end shopping is concentrated around the Opera House on Trang Tien while the indoor Dong Xuan market at Cau Dong (9am-4pm) offers a mix of cut-price goods. Opening hours are typically 10am-7pm daily.
Dining with locals
Koto, 59 Van Mieu (koto.com.au; 7am-10pm daily) does more than just serve tasty Vietnamese cuisine, such as beef baked in bamboo (165,000d/£5). It also employs young people who come from struggling backgrounds as part of two-year courses in hospitality. Au Lac House at 13 Tran Hung Dao (10am-2pm and then 5pm-10pm daily) is a Vietnamese fusion restaurant in a century-old colonial mansion. Here, head chef Mr Nam dishes up the likes of grilled duck in a five-spice sauce.
Go to church
The twin belltowers of St Joseph's Cathedral at 40 Nha Chung (5am-noon and 2-7.30pm daily; Sunday mass every two hours, 5am-11am; free) were built on the site of the old Bao Thien pagoda in 1886. The stained-glass windows from France are a highlight of the neo-gothic interior.
Out to brunch
Slurp your way through a big bowl of pho, Vietnam's national dish of soup noodles. Try it at Pho Gia Truyen at 49 Bat Dan (6.30am-11am and 5.30pm-10pm daily). It's been serving one dish (pho with beef for 40,000d/£1) since 1940, cooked in vast cauldrons stocked with chopped chillies. Be prepared to queue.
Cultural afternoon
The Temple of Literature at Van Mieu (8am-5pm daily; 20,000d/60p) was built in 1070 to honour the Chinese philosopher Confucius. Students flock here to pray for exam success. Elsewhere, visit the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology on Nguyen Van Huyen (vme.org.vn; 40,000d/£1) focusing on the country's 54 ethnic groups.
A walk in the park
The botanical gardens of Bach Thao, 3 Hoang Hoa Tham (7am-10pm daily; 2,000d/1p) is a retreat of orchids, palms and banyan trees that's a popular backdrop for newlywed photographs.
Icing on the cake
Flanked by soldiers, the Mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh on Duong Hung Vuong (7am-11am, closed Friday and Monday; free) attracts long lines of devoted nationals keen to pay their respects to the iconic communist leader, whose embalmed body is on display. Next door is the marigold-yellow Presidential Palace (8am-11am and 2pm-4pm daily; 25,000d/75p), built in the early 20th century as the residence for the French Governor of Indochina. Ho Chi Minh rejected it as too grand and built his own humble lodgings within the grounds – a wooden house on stilts, which still stands today.
Get your bearings
The name Hanoi roughly translates as City in a Bend of the River. It is located on the banks of the Song Hong (Red River) in northern Vietnam, and was first inhabited by Emperor Ly Thai To in 1010. An exotic and chaotic city, it is home to 6.5 million people and (it's said) more than four million motorbikes. Crossing the road will test your nerve. To the north is the Old Quarter, a district of narrow alleys that's the traditional guild district. It still thrives with vendors and is where visitors are likely to spend most of their time.The days of French occupation during the 19th century are still redolent, particularly in the leafy French Quarter which is characterised by European-style boulevards. Between the two you will find the small but scenic Hoan Kiem Lake.
Take a view
The fifth floor City View Cafe at 7 Dinh Tien Hoang (cityviewcafe.com.vn; 7am-11pm daily) overlooks the serene Hoan Kiem Lake. Order a taro milkshake (70,000d/£2) and enjoy the strange juxtaposition of honking motorbikes swarming around the chaotic roundabout below you.
Take a hike
Complete the 2km loop around Hoan Kiem Lake. Starting from outside the City View Cafe, head south passing Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre at 57B Dihn Tien Hoang (thanglongwaterpuppet.org), which hosts evening performances of this old Vietnamese artform. Further on, you reach the small scarlet Huc bridge that leads to the idyllic Ngoc Son Temple (7.30am-5pm daily; 20,000d/60p) perched on an island in the lake. It's dedicated to General Tran Hung Dao, who led the triumphant battle against the Mongols in the 13th century. You can pause for thought at the Martyrs' Monument, honouring those who died fighting for Vietnam's independence, then continue along the lake's east shore on the shady pathways lined with strangler figs. Time your walk during the early morning and you may catch tai chi enthusiasts in action.
Window shopping
The Old Quarter is, essentially, a big market that still comprises centuries-old guild streets that specialise in particular products. Head to Hang Dau for shoes and the southern end of Hang Bong for silk and quality tailors. The city's high-end shopping is concentrated around the Opera House on Trang Tien while the indoor Dong Xuan market at Cau Dong (9am-4pm) offers a mix of cut-price goods. Opening hours are typically 10am-7pm daily.
Dining with locals
Koto, 59 Van Mieu (koto.com.au; 7am-10pm daily) does more than just serve tasty Vietnamese cuisine, such as beef baked in bamboo (165,000d/£5). It also employs young people who come from struggling backgrounds as part of two-year courses in hospitality. Au Lac House at 13 Tran Hung Dao (10am-2pm and then 5pm-10pm daily) is a Vietnamese fusion restaurant in a century-old colonial mansion. Here, head chef Mr Nam dishes up the likes of grilled duck in a five-spice sauce.
Go to church
The twin belltowers of St Joseph's Cathedral at 40 Nha Chung (5am-noon and 2-7.30pm daily; Sunday mass every two hours, 5am-11am; free) were built on the site of the old Bao Thien pagoda in 1886. The stained-glass windows from France are a highlight of the neo-gothic interior.
Out to brunch
Slurp your way through a big bowl of pho, Vietnam's national dish of soup noodles. Try it at Pho Gia Truyen at 49 Bat Dan (6.30am-11am and 5.30pm-10pm daily). It's been serving one dish (pho with beef for 40,000d/£1) since 1940, cooked in vast cauldrons stocked with chopped chillies. Be prepared to queue.
Cultural afternoon
The Temple of Literature at Van Mieu (8am-5pm daily; 20,000d/60p) was built in 1070 to honour the Chinese philosopher Confucius. Students flock here to pray for exam success. Elsewhere, visit the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology on Nguyen Van Huyen (vme.org.vn; 40,000d/£1) focusing on the country's 54 ethnic groups.
A walk in the park
The botanical gardens of Bach Thao, 3 Hoang Hoa Tham (7am-10pm daily; 2,000d/1p) is a retreat of orchids, palms and banyan trees that's a popular backdrop for newlywed photographs.
Icing on the cake
Flanked by soldiers, the Mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh on Duong Hung Vuong (7am-11am, closed Friday and Monday; free) attracts long lines of devoted nationals keen to pay their respects to the iconic communist leader, whose embalmed body is on display. Next door is the marigold-yellow Presidential Palace (8am-11am and 2pm-4pm daily; 25,000d/75p), built in the early 20th century as the residence for the French Governor of Indochina. Ho Chi Minh rejected it as too grand and built his own humble lodgings within the grounds – a wooden house on stilts, which still stands today.
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