TANGIER-MOROCCO

Inhabited by different races and religions for over 2,500 years, Tangier is a cosmopolitan city with an ancient history. Escape the hustle and bustle of its busy commercial centre to find the remnants of its glamorous past in its new, fashionable Mediterranean resort.

Always consult the Foreign Office before travelling.

WHERE TO STAY

• HOTEL CONTINENTAL

  Rue Dar El Baroud(00 212 3 9931 024)
  Once the grandest hotel in the area, it is now a bit tatty around the edges but still very atmospheric. The hotel provided the location for some of the scenes in the film The Sheltering Sky.

• HOTEL EL MINZAH

  Rue de la Liberté(00 212 3 9935 885)
  The grandest hotel in the city with a lovely Moorish courtyard. Its five star status means it has all the amenities you would expect, including a swimming pool and golf facilities near by.

• HOTEL RIF

  Avenue d'Espagne(00 212 3 9941 766)
  Don't be put off by the unpromising exterior: though ageing, the hotel's interior boasts true four-star James Bond glamour. A 1950s-style bar and a pool sunk into the rock are some of the hotel's stylish attractions.

• CLUB LES MIRAGES

  (00 212 3 9333 332)
  The Club Les Mirages is set up on a hill overlooking the bay and the town. Open from April to November.

• WHERE TO EAT

  RESTAURANT POPULAIRE SAVEUR SPECIALITES EN POISSONS
  Found at the bottom of the steps from the rue de Liberté. A favourite with locals, there are only four tables and no menu - you eat what is served, but it's usually worth writing home about.
  
  RESTAURANT HAMADI
  Rue d'Italie (00 212 9 934 514). A classic Moroccan restaurant, which inspired London's trendy new ones. A band of six septuagenarians who have been together since 1952 perform an unforgettable nightly cabaret.
  
  EL KORSAN
  The restaurant at Hotel El Minzah is a self-indulgent treat, serving Moroccan food that you have to fork out for.
  
  CAFE HAFA
  Behind the stadium. Established in 1921 and a favourite haunt of Paul Bowles, it was where all the colourful characters came who passed through Tangier, notably the Rolling Stones. It has stunning views of over the Straits of Gibraltar.

• WHAT TO SEE

  The Kasbah contains some beautiful palaces, including the Sultan's palace, Dar el-Makhzen, now a museum and Sidi Hosni palace, which once belonged to Barbara Hutton.

  WHERE TO SHOP

  Perfumeri Madini, 14 rue Sebou (00 212 9 934 388). Its essential oils are a key attraction, but Mr Madini is said to be able to copy any scent in the world.

• HOW TO GET THERE

  AIRPORT
  Tangier's airport is about 15km outside the city.
  
  AIRLINES FROM THE UK
  British Airways (0845 779 9977; www.british-airways.com) fly direct from London Heathrow twice a week.

  TOURIST INFO

  The tourist office is at 42 bd Pasteur (00 212 9 938239).

  WHEN TO GO

  The best times to visit Tangier are spring (April to May) and autumn (September to October). Summers can be eternally hot. Winters can be very chilly, wet and cloudy.

• TRAVEL INFORMATION

  Visas: Most visitors won't need a visa. Travellers are usually issued with a 90-day stamp on arrival.
  
  Public holidays: New Year's Day; Eid ul-Fitr (End of Ramadan); Throne Day (3 March); Eid ul-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice); Islamic New Year; Labour Day; Fête Nationale (23 May); Prophet's Birthday; Youth Day (9 July); Qued-ed-Dahab (14 Aug); Al-Massira (6 Nov); Independence Day (18 Nov).
  
  Good buys: The best place to find beautiful and bargainous items is at the souk. Look out for leather goods, silver jewellery, copper and brassware, rugs and ceramics - and don't be too shy to barter.
  
  Local dishes: Moroccan cuisine is as rich and varied as its culture. Favourites includetajines, dates, olives and nuts, and kefta (seasoned mince lamb).
  
  Funny fact: Half the population of Morocco is under 20. What's more, there are 12 times as many cows as there are human beings.
  
  Good reading: For a sense of the history of the country, check out Medinas: Morocco's Hidden Cities, a collection of images and poems by French photographer Jean-Marie Tingaud and Morocco's foremost author Tahar Ben Jelloun. Walter Harris's account of the years leading up to the French Protectorate, in Morocco That Was, is hard to put down. And Peter Mayne's A Year in Marrakech is an entertaining read, inspired by the Morocco of the 1950s.