GALWAY-IRELAND

Around Galway and the Aran Islands it is possible to sample the best of two very different worlds - the bars and backstreets of a small but busy city and the majestic splendour of the rugged coastline.

WHERE TO STAY

• HOTEL SPANISH ARCH

  Quay Street, Galway(00 353 91 569 600)
  Has 20 bedrooms and a central location.

• BRENNANS YARD

  Lower Merchants Road, Galway(00 353 91 568 166)
  Ideally located with 45 bedrooms.

• THE G

  Wellpark(00 353 91 865200)
  The Glooks like a sleek airport terminal that has landed in a retail park. But inside, the eye is willingly seduced by its theatrical interiors: the bubble-gum Pink Lounge, the oyster-coloured Grand Salon (where the whirlpool mirrors are nicknamed 'Camilla's hats'), the low-lit corridors, 12-room ESPA and huge bedrooms.

• HERON’S REST

  16a Long Walk(00 353 91 539574)
  The six-bedroomHeron's Restis a rare bird indeed: it appears to have 'Galway's Only Ocean View' (this may be remedied when the port is redeveloped). Sorcha Malloy, who opened the light- and flower-filled B&B six years ago, offers great breakfasts, picnics and evening meals straight out of the sea. And yes, there is a heron. He's called Arthur.

• WHERE TO EAT

  DRIMCONG HOUSE
  Moycullen (00 353 91 555 115). Just outside the centre of Galway, is Gerry and Marie Galvin's renowned restaurant. Open Tues-Sat between March and November, 7pm-10pm.
  
  MORAN'S OF THE WEIR
  If you drive south to the home of the native Clarinbridge oyster, visit Moran's of the Weir at Kilcolgan (00 353 91 796 113), for buttered brown soda bread and Galway Bay oysters. Open daily, midday-10pm.
  
  PADDY BURKE'S
  A few miles closer to Galway, in Clarinbridge (00 353 91 796 107). Good for oysters and stout. Open daily, 12.30pm-10pm.
  
  MCDONAGH'S FISH SHOP AND SEAFOOD BAR
  22 Quay Street, Galway (00 353 91 565 001). A popular fish-and-chip restaurant.
  
  GOYA'S PASTRY SHOP
  Kirwan's Lane, Galway (00 353 91 567 010). Open Mon-Thurs, 9.30am-5.45pm; Fri/Sat, 9.30am-6pm.
  
  CREATIVE CUISINE
  Kirwan's Lane, Galway (00 353 91 568 266). Open Mon-Sat, midday-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm.
  
  THE GRAINSTORE
  Lower Abbeygate Street (00 353 91 567833; about €30 for two). Orla Purdy opened The Grainstore last year. Its downstairs deli and upstairs café, all white tongue-and-groove and French grey detailing, serve simple, modern Irish/European food.
  
  SHERIDANS WINE SHOP
  14-16 Churchyard Street (00 353 91 564832; www.sheridanscheesemongers.com; about €40). Sheridans Wine Shop, on the upper floor of a cheesemongers, does the perfect light bite: a wooden board of charcuterie and cheese with a glass of wine from its excellent cellar.
  
  MATZ AT THE G
  The G, Wellpark (00 353 91 865200;about €90). Fine local fish and flesh.
  
  OYSTER GRILL
  Hotel Meyrick, Eyre Square (00 353 91 564041; www.hotelmeyrick.ie; about€100). For a central location, try theOyster Grillat the Hotel Meyrick, which serves Galway oysters, Aran-peat-smoked salmon and Irish steaks in a formal room with a chequerboard floor and large windows overlooking Eyre Square.

• WHAT TO SEE

  THOOR BALLYLEE
  One kilometre off the N18 Galway-Limerick road (00 353 9163 1436). A Norman tower bought by Yeats in 1917. Open daily, from Easter to October, 10am-6pm.
  
  ST NICHOLAS COLLEGIATE CHURCH
  Lombard Street, Galway. The largest medieval parish church in Ireland, and still in use. It was built in 1320, and Christopher Columbus is said to have worshipped here in 1477. Open daily.
  
  ROYAL TARA CHINA VISITOR CENTRE
  Tara Hall, Mervue, 3km from Galway (00 353 91 751 301). The leading manufacturer of bone china in Ireland. Free tours are conducted hourly. Open Mon-Fri, 9.30am-3.30pm.
  
  NORA BARNACLE MUSEUM
  Bowling Green, Galway (00 353 91 564 743). The home of James Joyce's wife. Open daily, 10am-5pm.
  
  CLADDAGH MUSEUM
  Visit the tiny Claddagh Museum in Thomas Dillon's ring shop on Quay Street. The Claddagh ring - a heart clasped by two hands - has a long and romantic back story originating in the hamlet across the River Corrib, and has come to symbolise Galway (and Ireland). The museum is a moving visual record of peasant life in Galway in the early 20th century, with not a Celtic Tiger in sight.
  
  ARAN ISLANDS
  Head to the Aran Islands from Ros an Mhíl, 23 miles from the city and served by a shuttle bus (www.aranislandferries.com).
  
  CITY TOUR
  Walk the city with English blow-in Fiona Brennan (www.galwaywalkingtours.com)

• HOW TO GET THERE

  AIRPORT
  Knock airport, on the mainland.
  
  AIRLINES FROM THE UK
  Ryanair (0541 569 569; www.ryanair.com) flies daily from London Stansted to Knock.
  
  BY BOAT
  You can reach the Aran Islands by boat. Contact Island Ferries (00 353 91 561 767; fax: 568 538). To go by plane, call Aer Arann (00 353 91 593 034; fax: 593 238).

  TOURIST INFO

  Contact Galway Tourist Office on 00 353 91 563 081, fax: 565 201.

  WHEN TO GO

  Rainfall is high in the west of Ireland, with thunderstorms and bouts of bad weather common during summer. The driest months are in late spring. There are a number of events throughout the year which draw visitors, including the Clarinbridge Oyster Festival in September, the hectic Galway Race in August, a two-week arts festival in July.

• TRAVEL INFORMATION

  Visas: For citizens of most Western countries no visa is required. UK nationals born in Great Britain or Northern Ireland do not require a passport to visit the Republic.
  
  Public holidays: New Year's Day; St Patrick's Day (17 March); Good Friday; Easter Monday; June Holiday, August Holiday; October Holiday; Christmas Holiday.
  
  Good buys: Traditional crafts such as cut crystal, woolens (particularly Aran jumpers and Donegal teed) and pottery.
  
  Local dishes: Potato dishes are popular - try boxty, champ or colcannon, all variations on mashed potato, together with some Irish stew. The seafood, especially oysters and mussels, is excellent. Guinness is ubiquitous and Irish coffee (black coffee, sugar, whiskey and cream) is also popular.
  
  Interesting fact: Ireland adopted the harp after the English banned bagpipes from being played during the occupation of Ireland. This is why the Irish have the harp as a symbol of the country. It appears on bank notes, flags, and on the famous stout drink Guinness.
  
  Good reading: Good reading includes James Joyce's Ulysses, Ireland's most famous piece of literature, and Angela's Ashes by Frank McCourt, a sad and affectionate description of the author's childhood years spent between New York and Ireland.