The Indonesian capital is notorious for hectic activity and gridlocked streets, but a bit of further investigation reveals there's plenty more to Jakarta than traffic jams. The fifth biennial Salihara festival (salihara.org), a highlight of Jakarta's busy arts calendar, at Komunitas Salihara, Jalan Salihara 16, runs until October 22. International acts will brush shoulders with a host of local dancers, musicians, actors, artists and comedians at this impressive venue.
Get your bearings
The historic old city (known as Kota, or Old Batavia) sits along the southern edge of Jakarta Bay, close to the port. Medan Merdeka (Freedom Square), four miles inland, is considered the centre of the modern city. The tourist office is nearby, in the Jakarta Theatre building, Jalan MH, at Thamrin No 9 (jakarta-tourism.go.id). The well-to-do suburbs, Menteng and Kuningan, sit just to the south of the city centre while trendy Kemang and Blok M, further south and south west respectively, offer an array of bars, clubs and restaurants. In town, bajaj (motor-rickshaws) and ojek (motorbike taxis) are the fastest way to get around, but make sure you negotiate your fare before getting in. Alternatively, the rapid-transit busway system runs 12 routes across the city and costs a flat 40p fare. Train fares vary by the distance travelled; get a pay-as-you go railcard to skip the ticket office queues.
Take a view
Head to Monas, a 132-metre obelisk at the centre of Medan Merdeka, topped by a golden flame. It was built in the 1960s to commemorate the Indonesian struggle for independence from the Dutch between 1945 and 1949. The viewing platform at the monument's tip is accessed through the small museum at its base (8.30am-5pm, closed last Monday of the month; 5,000Rp/25p). On a clear day you can see Mount Salak, a dormant volcano 60km south.
Take a hike
From Monas, wander south through the leafy square along Silang Merdeka Tenggara. Look out for the spotted deer which live in an enclosure in the square's south-east corner. Leave through the nearby gate and turn left up Medan Merdeka Timur past the National Gallery of Indonesia before taking a right on to Perwira and the next left on to Banteng Barat. You'll pass between Masjid Istiqlal, Indonesia's largest mosque, and Gereja Katedral, a neo-gothic cathedral built in 1901. Their proximity is usually cited as a good example of Indonesia's religious tolerance; they're said to share car parks on occasion.
Cross the Ciliwung Canal before following it around to the right until you come upon the Gurdwara Sikh Temple. Follow Jalan Gang Kelinci Raya for five blocks to find Pasar Baru, a covered market where the stall-holders hawk a motley selection of clothing, shoes and fruit. Cross back over the canal and turn right along Jalan Pos to see the Gedung Kesenian – the colonial-era concert hall.
Lunch on the run
There's a selection of restaurants and street food stalls along Veteran 1. Pick up a plate of spicy chicken satay cooked over hot coals and served with sliced apple for around 20,000Rp (£1) then drop by Rasuna Es Italia to try their durian ice cream (17,000Rp/85p).
Cultural afternoon
Follow the perimeter of Medan Merdeka, where you'll find the National Museum at Jalan Medan Merdeka Barat 12 (museumnasional.or.id; 8am-4pm, closed Mondays; 10,000Rp/50p). The sprawling permanent exhibition provides an excellent overview of the myriad indigenous cultures that populate the Indonesian archipelago. Mid-week visitors can join the free English-language tour run by the Indonesian Heritage Society that meets in the entrance hall at 10.30am on Tuesdays and Thursdays.
Dining with the locals
Wander through the charming residential lanes south of Kebon Sirih to an alley which is known as the Culinary Centre, but is actually a row of foodstalls and folding tables that offer cheap, freshly cooked food from across the region. Nasi goreng – a tasting plate of rice and curries – will cost you from between 80p to £1. If you want something a bit more formal, you can jump in a bajaj to Lara Djonggrang at Jalan Teuku Cik Di Tiro 4 (bit.ly/Djonggrang), and ask for a table in the atmospheric, temple-like back room.The excellent squid satay, which is stewed in coconut milk and served in an enormous conch shell, is priced at 58,000Rp (£3).
Out to brunch
Social House on the first floor of the Grand Indonesia mall on Plaza Indonesia (bit.ly/SocHouse) is popular among expatriates on lazy Sunday mornings. Try the ricotta hotcakes with crisp honeycomb and banana. Open 8am until late.
A walk in the park
From Plaza Indonesia head east into upmarket Menteng, which has wide, tree-lined streets and a smattering of small parks. Barack Obama was a pupil at nearby SDN Menteng 01 elementary school as a 10-year-old. Sirupati Park, at the southern end of Teuku Umar, features reflexology paths for barefoot walking and occasionally hosts small string orchestras. Also charming is Situ Lembang Park, a block further east, which is taken up by an enormous lily pond. Locals fish in its (rather murky) waters.
Window shopping
Find delicately-cut shadow puppets, carved wooden masks and an array of chandeliers, silks and metalwork miscellany at the antiques market along the length of Jalan Surabaya, a five-minute walk away. Prices vary considerably according to quality, condition and your haggling prowess – aim for half the initial price.
Take a ride
Catch a northbound train from nearby Cikini station to Kota, for 15p, to see the grand colonial architecture in and around Fatahillah Square. Two museums are close at hand and worth a look. The first is the Maritime Museum which is sited in a former Dutch East India Company warehouse at Jalan Pasar Ikan 1 (museumbahari.org; daily 9am-3pm, closed Mondays). The other is the Shadow Puppet Museum at Pintu Besar Utara Street 27 (daily 9am-3pm, closed Mondays).
Go to church
The dark-domed Immanuel Church at Jalan Merdeka Timur 10 might be faded but it is grand. The Flentrop pipe organ dates from 1843. English language services are held at 5pm Sundays.
Icing on the cake
Scattered across Jakarta Bay, the Thousand Islands have silver beaches and clear water that's perfect for snorkelling, they make for a refreshing day trip. Ferries leave Muara Angke fishing port for Tidung island at 7am daily (33,000Rp/£1.70). Or charter a boat for the day from Ancol Marina for 2,500,000 (£130).
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