The new Scottish Parliament has given Edinburgh a newfound dynamism. Among the cobbled streets and Gothic architecture you will find chic modern hotels and trendy restaurants.
WHERE TO STAY
BOROUGH
72-80 Causewayside EH9(0131 668 2255)This tiny boutique hotel, with just nine bedrooms, looks like it was designed by Stanley Kubrick. The rooms are comfortable but small with DVD players and Molton Brown toiletries. Chef Brian Jones is behind the excellent restaurant.HOLYROOD HOTEL
Holyrood Road(0131 225 3921)The Holyrood, next to the new Scottish Parliament, has 157 rooms, eight front-of-house suites, full spa and conference facilities and a butler service on the Club Floor. Here, there is private lift access, a well-stocked library, a comfortable lounge and valet to take care of your every need.HOTEL DU VIN
11 Bristo Place, Edinburgh EH1(0131 247 4900)Set in a former lunatic asylum in the city's Old Town, Hotel du Vin Edinburgh was added to the Hotel du Vin chain in late 2008. It adheres to HdV's tried-and-tested formula of chic contemporary decor, with lots of glass walls and a muted colour scheme, and all 47 rooms and suites come with enormous beds with hand-sprung mattresses, freestanding baths and monsoon showers. The Bistro, where a sommelier is on hand to help guests negotiate the extensive wine list, serves classic European cuisine with a modern twist. Featured in the Gold List 2011MALMAISON
One Tower Place, Leith(0131 468 5000)A stylish hotel down by the Leith docks, Malmaison is renowned both for its bold, beautiful decor and its hospitality. Most rooms have good views, and all include CD players and fresh flowers. The food is excellent, both in the Brasserie and the Café Bar.PRESTONFIELD
Priestfield Road(0131 225 7800)The old-world glamour is thanks to attentive staff, who come to find you in whichever room in the house you decide to take dinner or a drink, and an amazing restaurant, Rhubarb, named as it was the first estate in Scotland to grow it.ROOMS
55A Frederick Street(0131 622 7800)Not strictly a hotel, Rick's restaurant*bar*rooms, is located in the heart of Edinburgh's Georgian New Town. Its bar-restaurant occupies the basement of a neo-classical townhouse and offers an eclectic pan-European-meets-Pacific Rim menu, while its 10 contemporary style bedrooms occupy three floors of an abutting Georgian warehouse. Excellent service.THE BALMORAL
1 Princes Street(0131 556 2414)This grand old building is ideally situated between the Old and New Towns. Rooms are smart, many with excellent views, and the hotel boasts an impressive array of bars and restaurants.THE BONHAM
35 Drumsheugh Gardens(0131 226 6050)Period and contemporary styles combine beautifully in these restored Victorian townhouses in the city centre. Each room contains an integrated TV/audio/DVD/computer system.THE GEORGE INTER-CONTINENTAL
19-21 George Street(0131 225 1251)Spectacular Georgian architecture is one feature of this large hotel near Edinburgh's business district. Also ideal for George Street's chic shops, this establishment includes a couple of fine eateries, and typically hospitable Scottish service.THE GLASSHOUSE
152 Morrison Street, The Exchange, Edinburgh(0777 600 3890)The post-modern Glasshouse (a Gothic church merged with a leisure centre) boasts an extraordinary, two-acre rooftop garden of juniper and heather, with views of Calton Hill. For the lazy, 30 of the 65 bedrooms open out onto garden patios. Inside, there's under-floor heating in the bathrooms, nudes on the walls and remote control curtains. There is no restaurant, although room service can provide Champagne and pizza, and a full Scottish breakfast is served in The Observatory room. The Glasshouse is not the most gregarious of Scottish hotels, but it is stylish enough to have hosted both The Darkness and Meryl Streep (though not on the same night). The Glasshouse was featured in .THE GLENEAGLES HOTEL
Auchterarder, Perthshire(0800 389 3737)41 miles from Edinburgh. Described as 'a Riviera in the Highlands' when it opened in 1924, the 270-room château-style hotel is as popular today as it ever was - it was voted best UK leisure hotel in our . The renowned golf course hosts many competitions and one of the hotel's four restaurants, run by Andrew Fairlie, has a Michelin star. There is also an equestrian centre and spa. The Gleneagles was featured in our special feature UK Hotels.THE POINT
34 Bread Street(0131 221 5555)Situated at the foot of Castle Rock, this hotel has recently joined the Hilton Doubletree chain and is being renovated at the time of writing (summer 2013).THE SCOTSMAN
20 North Bridge(0131 556 5565)For almost a century, Scotland's grand old national newspaper was edited (and printed) in this baronial office block. But several years ago it was converted into a chic, discreet hotel, a comfortable blend of traditional five-star and smart boutique.THE WITCHERY
By The Castle, 52 Castlehill(0131 225 5613)James Thomson's city-centre prototype, which celebrates its silver jubilee this year, is just as eccentric and colourful as his new out-of-town acquisition, Prestonfield (see above). A 16th-century merchant house, named after the witches burnt on Castlehill, it's an operatic fantasy, stuffed with bizarre curios and antiques. The two restaurants are relatively restrained, but only compared to the gloriously camp guest suites. Like silent-movie evocations of an imaginary Scotland, these dreamlike hideaways have been inhabited by Hollywood stars Jack Nicholson, and Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones.TURNBERRY RESORT
Turnberry, Ayrshire(01655 331 000 )99 miles from Edinburgh. Set in 800 acres of countryside on the west coast of Scotland, this grand Edwardian country-house resort is best known for its two championship golf courses, which were host to the 2009 Open Championships.The resort reopened in 2009 ahead of the Championships after a massive refurbishment, thanks to a £65 million investment made by new owners Leisurecorps. It is now part of the prestigious Starwood's Luxury Collections, which boasts among its portfolio 70 of the world's most exclusive hotels. Guests can now enjoy fine teas and exquisite cuisine in four new restaurants, bars and lounges, as well as a complimentary full Scottish breakfast served each morning. A newly-decorated spa has breathtaking views out to sea, and features the latest treatments by renowned spa specialists ESPA. Activities on offer include clay pigeon shooting, 4x4 off-road driving, horse riding, quad biking and falconary, to name a few.WHERE TO EAT
CAFE ROYAL
17a/19 West Register Street (0131 556 4124). You can eat or simply drink at this classic seafood restaurant, which doubles as Edinburgh's loveliest little bar. For the price of a pint, you can admire the painted Doulton tiles in the palatial Circle Bar or dine in even grander style in the cut-glass Oyster Bar restaurant next door. Film buffs should recognise this listed gin palace from the movie Chariots of Fire.
CITY CAFE
19 Blair Street (0131 220 0125). Teetering on the edge of Cowgate, where you'll find the city's subterranean clubland, this designer bar is a handy rendezvous for a lively after-dinner drink to limber up before something more raucous. The muted furnishing is 1950s Americana with a Scottish spin. Imagine Ed's Diner redesigned by Charles Rennie Mackintosh.
FISHERS
1 The Shore (0131 554 5666) and 58 Thistle Street (0131 225 5109). There are two branches of this renowned fish restaurant: Fishers Bistro in Leith and Fishers In The City, in the New Town. Both serve fine seafood in informal surroundings.
OLOROSO
33 Castle Street (0131 226 7614). You'd never guess there was a first-class restaurant above this anonymous office block, but the lift opens onto a plate-glass penthouse looking out across the Forth, and the cooking is as impressive as the vista. Head chef Tony Singh has worked on the Royal Scotsman train and the Royal Yacht Britannia (now moored down the road in Leith) and his international menu is equally well-travelled and eclectic. Thankfully, the prices aren't as imposing as the views.
RESTAURANT MARTIN WISHART
54 The Shore (0131 553 3557). The exquisite restaurant of Edinburgh-born chef Martin Wishart was the first to get a Michelin star. His use of Scottish ingredients epitomises how local restaurants, and the locals who eat in them, have changed. Leith's rejuvenated waterfront boasts some of Edinburgh's best eating, and this is as good as it gets. Wishart has worked with the Roux brothers and Marco Pierre White, and his intimate restaurant marries local seasonal ingredients with contemporary French cuisine. His wife is French, and the French-and-Scots dialects of her front-of-house staff echo the oblique accents of his food. 'It's quite classical,' he says, 'but I also use my own finishing touches.' His delicate dishes are subtle yet arresting. The understated decor and informative, friendly service allow you to sit back and relish them.
SYGN
15 Charlotte Lane (0131 225 6060; www.sygn.co.uk). Sleek bar/restaurant with wooden floors and leather sofas in Edinburgh's West End. Go for their signature burger with chilli jam or the monkfish kebabs. In the evening, the cocktails flow - the Snap Happy and Sensual Chocolate are popular choices.
THE KITCHIN
78 Commercial Quay (0131 555 1755; www.thekitchin.com).
THE TOWER
(0131 225 3003). This is one of Edinburgh's best new restaurants, with breathtaking views and reasonably-priced two-course lunches. The menu is modern Scots with an international twist, like the museum beneath it. It is owned by James Thomson, who also owns Prestonfield and The Witchery hotels. (See Where to Stay).
THE WITCHERY
(0131 225 5613). Serves a mix of Scottish and Mediterranean food.
DUBH PRAIS
(0131 557 5732). A cellar restaurant offering local food such as venison and salmon, as well as more exotic dishes, including ostrich.
CREELERS
(0131 220 4447). Delicious fish dishes.
ATRIUM
(0131 228 8882). Renowned for its excellent cuisine.
SHEEP HEID INN
(0131 661 1020). The oldest pub in the city.
WHAT TO SEE
Visit imposing Edinburgh Castle which dominates the city's skyline. St Margaret's Chapel is the oldest surviving part of the castle and dates back to the 12th century. Wander down the Royal Mile, the name given to the road that runs along the crest of the ridge linking the Castle with Holyroodhouse, a working 17th-century palace where Mary Queen of Scots once lived. Art lovers should head to The National Art Gallery of Scotland on Princes Street, or the Gallery of Modern Art a few minutes away from the West End. Two of Scotland's most recently built museums include The Dynamic Earth Museum, built to celebrate the millennium, and the New Museum of Scotland, in Chamber Street, which features important artefacts from Scottish History. For shopping, head to Princes Street, and for a bite to eat, stop off in New Town, a beautiful Georgian part of the city, where there are plenty of great pubs and restaurants. There are excellent seafood restaurants down by the docks at Leith. Take a stroll up Calton Hill or Arthur's Seat, from where there are excellent views over the city and out to sea.
Edinburgh is famous for its festivals, but its museums and galleries are open all-year round, and the biggest and best of them are free:
DEAN GALLERY
73 Belford Road (0131 624 6200; www.nationalgalleries.org). This former orphanage only became a gallery five years ago, but it already feels as established as the modern art museum across the road. Treats include a permanent tribute to Edinburgh-born sculptor Eduardo Paolozzi and a super collection of Dada and Surrealist art. If you have an hour or so to spare, why not walk back into town along the footpath that follows the Water of Leith, a winding river that runs through wooded valleys to the leafy village of Stockbridge. The redundant weirs en route are remnants of Edinburgh's industrial past. Open Fri-Wed 10am-5pm, Thurs 10am-7pm.
MUSEUM OF SCOTLAND
Chambers Street (0131 247 4422; www.nms.ac.uk.). Scotland's story, from geology to sociology, is told in a fresh and lively style in a bold new building in the romantic Old Town. Above is The Tower, one of Edinburgh's best new restaurants. (See Where to Eat). Museum open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm (Tues until 8pm), Sun noon-5pm.
NATIONAL GALLERIES OF SCOTLAND
The Mound (0131 624 6200; www.nationalgalleries.org). European painting from the Renaissance to post-impressionism, plus important Scottish artists, in a classical gallery that's a work of art in its own right. Open Fri-Wed 10am-5pm, Thurs until 7pm.
SCOTTISH NATIONAL GALLERY OF MODERN ART
75 Belford Road (0131 624 6200; www.nationalgalleries.org). The work of many major names in 20th-century painting, from German Expressionism to American Pop Art, plus an impressive collection of Scottish Colourists are housed here. The wholesome café in the basement is a popular place for lunch. Gallery open Fri-Wed 10am-5pm, Thurs until 7pm.
SCOTTISH NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY
1 Queen Street (0131 624 6200; www.nationalgalleries.org). The men and women who helped shape Scotland, from Bonnie Prince Charlie to Sean Connery, painted by modernists such as Oskar Kokoschka and old masters such as Van Dyck. The statue of James Watt used to stand in Westminster Abbey. A memorial to a British hero has become a memorial to a Scottish one. Open Fri-Wed 10am-5pm, Thurs 10am-7pm.
THE EDINBURGH FESTIVAL
The Edinburgh Festival is actually several festivals. Since 1947, the International Festival has been an annual forum for the finest music and drama from around the world. Edinburgh Festival Fringe, which grew up around it, ranges from student Am Dram to accomplished world premieres. The book, film and jazz festivals are sophisticated yet unpretentious and the TV festival is more of a media trade fair.
Edinburgh is famous for its festivals, but its museums and galleries are open all-year round, and the biggest and best of them are free:
DEAN GALLERY
73 Belford Road (0131 624 6200; www.nationalgalleries.org). This former orphanage only became a gallery five years ago, but it already feels as established as the modern art museum across the road. Treats include a permanent tribute to Edinburgh-born sculptor Eduardo Paolozzi and a super collection of Dada and Surrealist art. If you have an hour or so to spare, why not walk back into town along the footpath that follows the Water of Leith, a winding river that runs through wooded valleys to the leafy village of Stockbridge. The redundant weirs en route are remnants of Edinburgh's industrial past. Open Fri-Wed 10am-5pm, Thurs 10am-7pm.
MUSEUM OF SCOTLAND
Chambers Street (0131 247 4422; www.nms.ac.uk.). Scotland's story, from geology to sociology, is told in a fresh and lively style in a bold new building in the romantic Old Town. Above is The Tower, one of Edinburgh's best new restaurants. (See Where to Eat). Museum open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm (Tues until 8pm), Sun noon-5pm.
NATIONAL GALLERIES OF SCOTLAND
The Mound (0131 624 6200; www.nationalgalleries.org). European painting from the Renaissance to post-impressionism, plus important Scottish artists, in a classical gallery that's a work of art in its own right. Open Fri-Wed 10am-5pm, Thurs until 7pm.
SCOTTISH NATIONAL GALLERY OF MODERN ART
75 Belford Road (0131 624 6200; www.nationalgalleries.org). The work of many major names in 20th-century painting, from German Expressionism to American Pop Art, plus an impressive collection of Scottish Colourists are housed here. The wholesome café in the basement is a popular place for lunch. Gallery open Fri-Wed 10am-5pm, Thurs until 7pm.
SCOTTISH NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY
1 Queen Street (0131 624 6200; www.nationalgalleries.org). The men and women who helped shape Scotland, from Bonnie Prince Charlie to Sean Connery, painted by modernists such as Oskar Kokoschka and old masters such as Van Dyck. The statue of James Watt used to stand in Westminster Abbey. A memorial to a British hero has become a memorial to a Scottish one. Open Fri-Wed 10am-5pm, Thurs 10am-7pm.
THE EDINBURGH FESTIVAL
The Edinburgh Festival is actually several festivals. Since 1947, the International Festival has been an annual forum for the finest music and drama from around the world. Edinburgh Festival Fringe, which grew up around it, ranges from student Am Dram to accomplished world premieres. The book, film and jazz festivals are sophisticated yet unpretentious and the TV festival is more of a media trade fair.
DEPARTMENT STORES
JENNERS
48 Princes Street, Edinburgh (0844 800 3725;www.houseoffraser.co.uk). Established in 1838, Jenners is Europe's oldest department store and the faded glamour and difficult-to-navigate spiral staircases are all part of its charm. The famous food court at the top holds a feast of Scottish delicacies, and the designer lab is excellent.
FASHION
ARMSTRONGS
83 The Grassmarket, Edinburgh (0131 220 5557; www.armstrongsvintage.co.uk). Armstrongs is a vintage hunter's treasure trove. Be prepared to rummage and you'll be rewarded with finds dating back to the Victorian era.
BOUDICHE
15 Frederick Street, Edinburgh (0131 226-5255; www.boudiche.com). This pretty boudoir-style boutique stocks lingerie - specialising in larger sizes - from La Perla, Chantelle and Damaris. Owners Clare and Fiona are friendly and knowledgeable, and a glass of pink Champagne while you browse is part of the standard treatment.
CORNICHE
2 Jeffrey Street, Edinburgh (0131556 3707; www.corniche.org.uk). This fashion boutique for men and women has been stocking hard-to-find designers like Yohji Yamamoto, Comme Des Garçons and Vivienne Westwood since 1976.
GODIVA
9 Westport, Edinburgh (0131 221 9212; www.godivaboutique.co.uk). A showcase for emerging talent from Edinburgh's prestigious College of Art, Godiva's mixture of vintage, reworked and one-off designs are sure to delight any discerning shopper.
FOOD
VALVONA AND CROLLA
19 Elm Row, Edinburgh (0131 556 6066; www.valvonacrolla.co.uk). An Aladdin's cave of hanging meat, fine wine and fragrant herbs, Scotland's oldest and most famous delicatessen is a much-loved institution. The vast rows of freshly baked Italian bread and wealth of fresh produce could make finding what you actually came in for quite difficult, but be sure to factor in enough time to visit the excellent café bar hidden through the back.
JENNERS
48 Princes Street, Edinburgh (0844 800 3725;www.houseoffraser.co.uk). Established in 1838, Jenners is Europe's oldest department store and the faded glamour and difficult-to-navigate spiral staircases are all part of its charm. The famous food court at the top holds a feast of Scottish delicacies, and the designer lab is excellent.
FASHION
ARMSTRONGS
83 The Grassmarket, Edinburgh (0131 220 5557; www.armstrongsvintage.co.uk). Armstrongs is a vintage hunter's treasure trove. Be prepared to rummage and you'll be rewarded with finds dating back to the Victorian era.
BOUDICHE
15 Frederick Street, Edinburgh (0131 226-5255; www.boudiche.com). This pretty boudoir-style boutique stocks lingerie - specialising in larger sizes - from La Perla, Chantelle and Damaris. Owners Clare and Fiona are friendly and knowledgeable, and a glass of pink Champagne while you browse is part of the standard treatment.
CORNICHE
2 Jeffrey Street, Edinburgh (0131556 3707; www.corniche.org.uk). This fashion boutique for men and women has been stocking hard-to-find designers like Yohji Yamamoto, Comme Des Garçons and Vivienne Westwood since 1976.
GODIVA
9 Westport, Edinburgh (0131 221 9212; www.godivaboutique.co.uk). A showcase for emerging talent from Edinburgh's prestigious College of Art, Godiva's mixture of vintage, reworked and one-off designs are sure to delight any discerning shopper.
FOOD
VALVONA AND CROLLA
19 Elm Row, Edinburgh (0131 556 6066; www.valvonacrolla.co.uk). An Aladdin's cave of hanging meat, fine wine and fragrant herbs, Scotland's oldest and most famous delicatessen is a much-loved institution. The vast rows of freshly baked Italian bread and wealth of fresh produce could make finding what you actually came in for quite difficult, but be sure to factor in enough time to visit the excellent café bar hidden through the back.
HOW TO GET THERE
AIRPORT
Edinburgh airport is 13km west of the city centre. There are frequent buses to and from the airport.
AIRLINES FROM THE UK
British Airways (0845 773 3377;www.britishairways.com), easyJet (0870 6000 000;www.easyjet.com), British Midland (0870 607 0555;www.flybmi.com).
Edinburgh airport is 13km west of the city centre. There are frequent buses to and from the airport.
AIRLINES FROM THE UK
British Airways (0845 773 3377;www.britishairways.com), easyJet (0870 6000 000;www.easyjet.com), British Midland (0870 607 0555;www.flybmi.com).
TOURIST INFO
Edinburgh's main tourist office (00 131 473 3800; www.edinburgh.org) is at the top of Princes Mall on Princes Street.
WHEN TO GO
Edinburgh's climate is not its main attraction. For the best weather, go between May and September. July and August are the city's busiest months when the Edinburgh Festival is in full flow.
Hogmanay, Scotland's New Year's Eve celebration, also attracts a great number of visitors. Visit www.edinburghshogmanay.org for more information on the festivities.
Although the winters are cold, the haar (sea mist) which envelops the city provides a perfect romantic setting.
Hogmanay, Scotland's New Year's Eve celebration, also attracts a great number of visitors. Visit www.edinburghshogmanay.org for more information on the festivities.
Although the winters are cold, the haar (sea mist) which envelops the city provides a perfect romantic setting.
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Visas: As in the rest of Britain, EU citizens may live and work in Scotland, free of any immigration controls. Citizens of the USA, Canada, Australia and New Zealand are generally allowed to stay six months without a visa.
Public holidays in Scotland: New Year's Day; New Year's Bank Holiday; Good Friday; Easter Monday; May Day Bank Holiday; Spring Holiday; Summer Bank Holiday; Late Summer Bank Holiday; Christmas Day; Boxing Day; New Year's Eve.
Good buys in Scotland: Stock up on whisky and shortbread. Tartan and tweed clothing is also a popular buy.
Local dishes in Scotland: Celebrated national dishes include haggis with 'tatties and neaps' (potatoes and turnips), black pudding, cock-a-leekie, and world-class fresh meat, fish and seafood.
Good reading: Scottish literary classics include Rob Roy, by Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stephenson's Kidnapped. Any anthology of Robert Burns' poetry is also recommended. Also Muriel Sparks' The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie, Whisky Galore by Compton McKenzie, and Irving Welsh's Trainspotting, a contemporary take on Edinburgh.
Public holidays in Scotland: New Year's Day; New Year's Bank Holiday; Good Friday; Easter Monday; May Day Bank Holiday; Spring Holiday; Summer Bank Holiday; Late Summer Bank Holiday; Christmas Day; Boxing Day; New Year's Eve.
Good buys in Scotland: Stock up on whisky and shortbread. Tartan and tweed clothing is also a popular buy.
Local dishes in Scotland: Celebrated national dishes include haggis with 'tatties and neaps' (potatoes and turnips), black pudding, cock-a-leekie, and world-class fresh meat, fish and seafood.
Good reading: Scottish literary classics include Rob Roy, by Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stephenson's Kidnapped. Any anthology of Robert Burns' poetry is also recommended. Also Muriel Sparks' The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie, Whisky Galore by Compton McKenzie, and Irving Welsh's Trainspotting, a contemporary take on Edinburgh.
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