In a turbulent year which saw a military coup in May, anti-government protests, and then martial law, peace has returned to the Thai capital. Thailand has long been a popular spot for winter sun, but sultry Bangkok was always seen more as a gateway to the picture-perfect southern islands. That perception is changing, however. Some 16 million visitors now come to shop, stay in great-value hotels, explore glittering royal and Buddhist monuments and eat some of the finest food around. And this is a great time to go. The monsoon rains have passed and on 6 November (coinciding with the Full Moon) you can see one of the most magical nights of the year: the annual Loi Krathong festival, at which thousands of candles and decorative baskets are floated down the Chao Phraya (River of Kings) in homage to the water spirits.
Get your bearingsBangkok is a large and complicated city of around 10 million souls, but most places of interest to tourists are within a fairly manageable area on the east side of the Chao Phraya River. The Old City occupies a bulge of land, with Chinatown to the south and Dusit to the north. Many of the leading hotels are to the south-east in the Silom area. The main traffic-clogged arteries are the spines to which numbered lanes, or sois, are attached. Transport options include tuk-tuks (motorised three-wheelers, for which you negotiate a fare) and metered taxis. In the morning and evening rush (7-10am and 4-7pm) streets are gridlocked and motorcycle taxis come into their own, though it is safer to rely on the excellent SkyTrain (bts.co.th) and the MRT (bangkokmetro.co.th). The main tourist office is at 1600 New Phetchaburi Road (tourismthailand.org; 8.30am-4.30pm daily).
Take a view
Start the day with a bracing climb: up the 344 steps to the top of Wat Saket on Boriphrat Road (open 7.30am-5.30pm daily, 20 baht/40p). This Buddhist temple has views of Bangkok's skyscrapers, temples and canals, often accompanied by the sound of chanting monks.
Take a hike
Begin at the dazzling Grand Palace on Na Phra Lan Road (palaces.thai.net; 8.30am-4.30pm daily; 500 baht/£10), a royal residence until 1925. Tour the throne halls and catch a glimpse of the tiny but revered Emerald Buddha, draped in majestic robes, before exiting the complex and turning left on Tha Na Phra Lan. Follow the palace's high white walls until the end of the block, passing the Silpakorn University on the opposite side, and turn left on to Tha Maharat. Cross the road and head south browsing the Buddha amulets, old coins and other wares on offer along the street market. Escape the heat at number 77 with a refreshing cantaloupe smoothie (55 baht/£1) at Navy Café.
Further down is Tha Ratchaworadit, the ornate pier used exclusively for royal barges since the 1700s. Continue on this road until you reach Wat Pho at 2 Sanamchai Road (watpho.com; 8.30am-6.30pm; 100 baht/ £2) famed for its 43m-long reclining Buddha and Thai massage school (watpomassage.com; from 260 baht/£5).
Lunch on the run
Enjoy a bowl of tom yum koong (soup with river prawns and herbs) at The Deck at 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong (arunresidence.com). Mains are from 240 baht (£5) and the views of Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, inspired by Khmer architecture, are just as tasty.
Cultural afternoon
The National Museum at 4 Tha Na Phra That (9.30am-3.30pm Wednesday to Sunday, closed Monday and Tuesday; 200 baht/£4) , exhibits Thai antiques, religious sculptures and archaeological finds. Nearby, is the National Gallery at 4 Tha Chao Fa (9am-4pm Wednesday to Sunday, closed Monday and Tuesday; 200 baht/£4), formerly the Royal Mint. Among the works on display are oil paintings by the King.
Dining with the localsChef Ian Kittichai's restaurant, Issaya Siamese Club, is in a converted 1920s house at 4 Soi Sri Aksorn (issaya.com). Dishes such as Surat Thani crab with a spicy egg sauce are inspired by Bangkok's markets. Mains from 580 baht (£12).
For pad thai, head for the food stalls on Sukhumvit Soi 38. The simple green restaurant, on the right at the very end, is a good bet. Mains from 50 baht (£1).
Out to brunch
Local produce and "nose-to-tail" dining are on the menu at industrial restaurant Smith at 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (smith-restaurant.com). Request a table on the large terrace and tuck into eggs benedict. The brunch buffet is 1,400 baht (£28).
Window shoppingAt Chatuchak Weekend Market (chatuchak.org) on Tha Phahonyothin, more than 15,000 stalls offer everything from the latest fashions to Thai handicrafts and instruments. Catch the metro to Mochit station, arrive early with plenty of bottled water and be prepared to haggle hard.
Take a ride
Bangkok may not seem bike-friendly, but cycling is a thrilling way to explore the city's hidden corners. Spice Roads (spiceroads.com) leads various tours, including one to the nearby car-free and jungle-clad island of Bang Kra Jao, home to exotic birds and old temples (half-day tours from 1,150 baht/£23).
A walk in the park
Built upon land once owned by King Rama VI, Lumphini Park on Tha Phra Ram IV has open lawns, pavilions, pagodas and waterways where scaly water lizards lurk. It's a favourite spot for joggers and tai chi enthusiasts but everything comes to an abrupt stop twice a day, at 8am and 6pm, when the national anthem is played on loudspeakers.
Icing on the cakeLayered with a perfect balance of sweet, salty, spicy and sour flavours, Thai cuisine has become a favourite worldwide. Learn the secrets of making your own Thai food at the Amita Cookery School at 162/17 Soi Wutthakat 14 (amitathaicooking.com). The four-hour classes (3,000 baht/£60) are led by Tam Piyawadi Jantrupon, who teaches family recipes in her home on the banks of the Bangkok Yai canal. —
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