You can lose yourself in the winding medina streets of Fez, and in its past. Morocco's less-explored imperial city is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in the world and, as a result, Fez is perfect for a magical history tour. Its many restaurants and great hotels won't let you down either.
Read the Foreign Office's advice on travelling to Morocco here
Read the Foreign Office's advice on travelling to Morocco here
WHERE TO STAY
DAR BENNIS
Off Talaa Sghira, Fez(00 212 61 564 364)This 18th-century medina house of David Amster, director of the city's American Language centre, has been painstakingly restored. With its pocket-sized courtyard and snug salons, it provides perfect family accommodation.DAR SEFFARINE
14 Derb Sbaa Louyate, Fez(00 212 71 11 35 28)Gorgeous zellij tiles and stucco give this riad the air of a traditional palace, updated with a modern aesthetic.PASHA BAGDHADI MASSRIYA
Off Talaa El Kbira, Fez(00 1 831 724 5835)Guests to this medina apartment are provided with djellabas to wear, allowing them to lounge around this remarkable two-storey suite in ultimate comfort. The apartment, restored by a responsible–tourism company from the USA, has a hammam and a roof terrace enabling Morocco's religious capital to be enjoyed alfresco.RIAD AL BARTAL
21 rue Sournas, Ziat, Fez(00 212 35 63 70 53)A comfortable, pretty riad not far from the Bab Ziat entrance to the medina. French owners Mireille and Christian Laroche have lived in Fez for years and are knowledgeable and charming. In summer, when the roof is open to the sky, the courtyard garden is heavenly. Dinner is reasonably priced and delicious. There is also on-site massage.RIAD ARABESQUE
20 Bab il Guissa(00 212 55 635321)Situated in the northern medina, this seven-suite glorious Moorish palace is the home of the well-heeled. The central atrium has a lofty, theatrical feel and is full of ornate Arab-Andalucian furniture and ornate ironwork. Don't miss the excellent live music in the riad's restaurant.RIAD FES
Derb Ben Slimane, Fes el Bali, Fez(00 212 35 94 76 10)Sumptuous and exotic with a classy bar, lush gardens and a plunge pool.RIAD MAISON BLEUE
33 Derb el Mitter, off Tulaa el Kabira, Fez(00 212 535 74 18 39)In the 1990s, the hotel-restaurant, La Maison Bleue launched the Fez scene. This casual 11-suite riad has a terrace overlooking the medina ramparts. The hotel strikes a successful balance between antique splendour and modern comfort.SOFITEL FES PALAIS JAMAI
Bab el Guissa, Fez(00 212 535 63 43 31)Widely considered to be the only place to stay in the medina, Palais Jamaï was once a palace but is now a luxury Sofitel hotel. It has a tiled Andalucian-style garden and suites straight out of the Arabian Nights. Ask for a room with a medina view.RIAD NUMÉRO 9
9 derb Lamside, Souiket ben Safi(00 212 535 634045)Three-suite riad stylishly decorated by its designer-owner.RIAD AL BARTEL
21 rue Sournas, Ziat(00 212 535 637053)Hospitality at this beautifully restored riad full of books and plants is unsurpassed.PALAIS AMANI
12 derb el Miter(00 212 535 633209)Sleep like a king in an Art Deco suite.RIAD TIZWA FEZ
15 derb Guebbas, Batha(07973115471)A British-run riad, with iPod docks and morning coffee in tasselled Thermoses.RIAD ALKANTARA
24 Oued Souaffine(00 212 535 740292)Stunning cluster of riads set around gardens and a pool.
WHERE TO EAT
CAFE CLOCK
7 Derb El Magana, Talaa Kbira, Fes el Bali, Fez (00 212 35 63 78 55; www.cafeclock.com). A flourishing cultural centre and buzzy cafe whose plat populaire is the camel burger, fresh from the souk's dromedary stall.
DAR ANEBAR
15 Derb el Miter, Zenjafour, Fez (00 212 35 63 57 85;www.daranebar.com). Dar Anebar, in the medina, serves great food at low tables in a pretty lantern-lit courtyard.
7 Derb El Magana, Talaa Kbira, Fes el Bali, Fez (00 212 35 63 78 55; www.cafeclock.com). A flourishing cultural centre and buzzy cafe whose plat populaire is the camel burger, fresh from the souk's dromedary stall.
DAR ANEBAR
15 Derb el Miter, Zenjafour, Fez (00 212 35 63 57 85;www.daranebar.com). Dar Anebar, in the medina, serves great food at low tables in a pretty lantern-lit courtyard.
DAR ROUMANA
30 Derb el Amer, Fez (00 212 35 74 16 37; www.darroumana.com). A B&B and restaurant that serves traditional food and has a terrace that overlooks the whole medina.
30 Derb el Amer, Fez (00 212 35 74 16 37; www.darroumana.com). A B&B and restaurant that serves traditional food and has a terrace that overlooks the whole medina.
FEZ ET GESTES
39 Arsat el-Hamoumi, Ziat (00 212 535 638532; www.fes-et-gestes.ma). Herbal teas in a delightful colonial tea garden.
MAISON BLANCHE
12 rue Ahmed Chaouki, Ville Nouvelle (00212 535 622727; www.maison-blanche.ma. Lounge bar serving fusion food, popular with hip young things.
MEZZANINE
17 Kasbat Chams, next door to the Jardin Jnan Sbil, Fez (00 212 11 07 83 36;www.restaurantfez.com). Just on the edge of the medina, this newly opened lounge bar serves New York-grade cocktails and Fassi tapas.
17 Kasbat Chams, next door to the Jardin Jnan Sbil, Fez (00 212 11 07 83 36;www.restaurantfez.com). Just on the edge of the medina, this newly opened lounge bar serves New York-grade cocktails and Fassi tapas.
RIAD AL BARTAL
21 rue Sournas, Ziat, Fez (00 212 35 63 70 53; www.riadalbartal.com). The restaurant at Riad al Bartal (see Where to Stay) serves reasonably priced, delicious food. Try the Fassi specialities, including pastilla (a sweet and salty pie traditionally made with pigeon).
21 rue Sournas, Ziat, Fez (00 212 35 63 70 53; www.riadalbartal.com). The restaurant at Riad al Bartal (see Where to Stay) serves reasonably priced, delicious food. Try the Fassi specialities, including pastilla (a sweet and salty pie traditionally made with pigeon).
RIAD LE CALIFE
19 Bis Derb el Ouarbiya, Medina (00 212 535 762608; www.riadlecalife.com). Fassi food is impeccably served at this 1930s riad.
RIAD ARABESQUE
20 Bab Guissa, Znech 4, Fes el Bali, Fez (00 212 35 63 53 21; www.arabesquehotel.com). Enjoy a good selection of typical Fassi courtly cooking in exquisite surrounds with rose-petal strewn courtyards, tinkling fountains and cosy fireplaces. Riad Arabesque also features in Where to Stay.
20 Bab Guissa, Znech 4, Fes el Bali, Fez (00 212 35 63 53 21; www.arabesquehotel.com). Enjoy a good selection of typical Fassi courtly cooking in exquisite surrounds with rose-petal strewn courtyards, tinkling fountains and cosy fireplaces. Riad Arabesque also features in Where to Stay.
RIAD FЀZ
derb ben Slimane, Zerbtana (00 212 535 947610; www.riadfes.com). The most stylish bar in the Medina, with its cool lines and pool.
WHAT TO SEE
Enter the labyrinthe Medina at Bab Bou Jeloud (the blue tiled gate), and head along the main thoroughfare of Talaa Kebira. Stop by the exquisite Bou Inania Madrasa, the colourful Tanneries and the beautifully resored Attarine Madrasa. Peer in at Zaouia Moulay Idriss II, an historic shrine, and visit Karaouine Mosque.
In the Mellah - the Jewish quarter in Fez el-Jdid - is the site of the Royal Palace. Great views of the Medina can be had from the terraces of sumptuous Sofitel Fès Palais Jamaï, or from Borj Sud, south of the walled old city.
WHERE TO SHOP
The two main shopping streets in Fez-el-Bali are rue Talaa Seghira and rue Talaa Kebira, which both run between Bab Bou Jeloud and the heart of the medina. There are all manners of shops here, selling lamp shades, jewellery, ceramics, rugs, leather, postcards and more.
COIN BERBERE
67 Talaa Kebira, Fez. Coin Berbère sells beautiful carpets at reasonable prices. Friendly and laid-back owner Mohamed Bouzidi-Idrissi also sells good antiques, and can post your purchases to you.
PLACE NEJJARINE
With its beautiful tiled fountain, Place Nejjarine is near some great antique and junk shops.
PLACE SEFFARINE
Place Seffarine is the metalworkers' souk, where the air reverberates with the sound of copper and brass being beaten into a thousand objects, such as coffee pots and mirror frames.
TANNERIES
Guerniz tanneries just off Place Nejjarine are the oldest in the city, while Chouara tanneries are the most remarkable. Head north-east from place Seffarine along rue el Mechattine.
COIN BERBERE
67 Talaa Kebira, Fez. Coin Berbère sells beautiful carpets at reasonable prices. Friendly and laid-back owner Mohamed Bouzidi-Idrissi also sells good antiques, and can post your purchases to you.
PLACE NEJJARINE
With its beautiful tiled fountain, Place Nejjarine is near some great antique and junk shops.
PLACE SEFFARINE
Place Seffarine is the metalworkers' souk, where the air reverberates with the sound of copper and brass being beaten into a thousand objects, such as coffee pots and mirror frames.
TANNERIES
Guerniz tanneries just off Place Nejjarine are the oldest in the city, while Chouara tanneries are the most remarkable. Head north-east from place Seffarine along rue el Mechattine.
For antiques, objets d'art and a taste of genuine Fssi hospitality, call in Au Petit Bazaar de Bon Accueil, 35 Talaa Seghira (00 212 535 633764).
OUTSIDE THE CITY
MEKNES
A short train ride away is Meknès, another imperial city. Here is the fabulous Dar Jamaï museum of Moroccan arts and crafts, on Place el Hédime where children can ride on adorable miniature ponies. Other sights include the former imperial stables, which once housed more than 12,000 horses, and, next to it, the Haras de Meknès, the largest stud farm in Morocco where beautiful horses are still bred. The Bou Inania Medersa in Meknès is currently undergoing restoration.
A short train ride away is Meknès, another imperial city. Here is the fabulous Dar Jamaï museum of Moroccan arts and crafts, on Place el Hédime where children can ride on adorable miniature ponies. Other sights include the former imperial stables, which once housed more than 12,000 horses, and, next to it, the Haras de Meknès, the largest stud farm in Morocco where beautiful horses are still bred. The Bou Inania Medersa in Meknès is currently undergoing restoration.
WHEN TO GO
Like much of Morocco, October to April are the most popular months to visit. The temperature soars into the 30s by day, but it is much cooler by night.
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