Travel Inspiration: Mount Assiniboine & Magog Lake, Alberta

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Mount Assiniboine & Magog Lake, Alberta | Mount Assiniboine straddles the Continental Divide and no roads lead into Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park. This unspoiled wilderness is an amazing place to explore. Brush up on your backwoods safety and enjoy skiing, snowshoeing, climbing, hiking and equestrian trails. 

Travel Inspiration: Hamburg Speicherstadt, Germany

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Hamburg Speicherstadt, Germany | Hamburg’s Speicherstadt is the city’s historic warehouse district and a favorite touring spot for visitors. Unlike modern warehouses, each building has been carefully constructed with oak log foundations. Tour the neighborhood and its neo-classical buildings on foot, by canal boat, or even from a tethered hot air balloon.

Travel Inspiration: The Wild Wall, China

Phillip Van Nostrand | CC BY-SA 2.0

The Wild Wall, China | The Jinshanling section of the Great Wall of China is more rugged and remote than the carefully preserved wall that tourists are exposed to in Beijing. Instead of vendors and large tour groups, this section of so-called “wild wall” caters to more intrepid adventurers. The further you hike along the wall, the less upkeep you will encounter. Watchtowers, staircases and even the top of the wall itself have begun to crumble after centuries of wind, rain and snow. 

Travel Inspiration: Swing at the End of the World, Baños, Ecuador

Rinaldo Wurglitsch | CC BY 2.0

Swing at the End of the World, Baños, Ecuador | This swing set isn’t your typical child’s play. While attached to the seemingly innocent La Casa Del Arbol (The Treehouse), the hanging swing takes you out over a steep drop-off 8,500 feet above sea level. With a few pumps of your legs, you leave the safety of the ground to hang over an abyss. If you’re brave enough to keep your eyes open, you’ll get a terrifyingly beautiful view of Tungurahua Volcano, which the Casa Del Arbol actually monitors the seismic activity of. 

Rediscovering Grenada, The Island that Smells of Spices

Twenty nine years ago, back when I was a young twenty something, I was full of life and looking for an adventure. So it didn’t shock anyone when I announced that I was joining a small crew of sailors, young and old, and I jumped on a fifty-foot sail boat and adventured to parts unknown in the Caribbean.  The trip took place over the holiday season, Boxing Day came and went, we even had a small Christmas tree onboard. It was that trip that I learned to eat Spam, we learned the hard way that most of the provision stores were closed due to the holiday season. 

The adventure of a lifetime lasted only about two weeks, we sailed from Saint Vincent’s Island, through the Windwards then down to the spice island known as Grenada. It was this trip that changed my sense of adventure. 

It was the trip that opened my eyes to another world. I not only fell in love with Grenada but also discovered my love of sailing. There’s something about being on the water, the crystal blues of the Caribbean, the wind in your face, the gentle motion of a sailboat, the occasional squall to heighten the level of excitement, flapping sails, the warm sunshine beating down on you, all of that and being surrounded by the paradise known as the West Indies, life was very good. 

I wasn’t hesitant in the least to visit Grenada back in 1985, I hadn’t given it a second thought, perhaps it was my youth or the feeling of invincibility, I had no fear. A short time prior to my first visit to Grenada, President Ronald Reagan, launched an invasion, known as “Operation Urgent Fury” onto the Spice Island.



One would never have known that less than two years earlier Grenada was in the middle of a serious uprising. The friendly smiles of the people were most welcoming back then and I felt very safe to be an American woman in Grenada. Those friendly faces and warm smiles emerged once again on my most recent visit to Grenada. 


F
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My butler at the Sandals resort.ast Forward: The Re-Visit

Fast forward: Almost three decades later in 2014, I found myself coming full circle, except this visit to Grenada was different, I spent most of my time on land. I was submerged in the midst of the turquoise waters once again, I felt my heart beating a little faster, I was back in the West Indies, back to Grenada. 

How lucky was I? I got to revisit this beautiful sleepy island in the Caribbean that smells of cinnamon and nutmeg. This time around I wouldn’t be forced to eat Spam, this time around I was lucky enough to call the beautiful and luxurious resort, Sandals LaSource Grenada my home away from home. 

It was there that I was pampered, top shelf fancy drinks and fabulous ala cart food choices, not to mention the Red Lane Spa with its eucalyptus steam and strong masseuses. Oh and did I mention butler service? That too! 

Through the Open Valleys

This time around Grenada I traveled through the open valleys and climbed my way up into the spice hills and explored Fort Frederick, the backward facing fort. I traveled through the lush rainforest to Annandale Falls, the most beautiful waterfalls in all Grenada. 

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Streetcorner in Saint Georges, Grenada.Oh how I wished I had worn my swim suit so I could have swam under the falls, it was still beautiful even though I didn’t get to take a dip. I was on the lookout for the Mona Monkeys of Grenada but much to my disappointment the only one that I did happen upon was tethered to a local man who was asking for a dollar to take a picture with the monkey. 

Needless to say, I don’t have a picture. I walked the colorful streets of Saint George and visited the busy market place on a sunny, hot Saturday afternoon. The streets were bustling with friendly people, the market vendors were busy, toddlers napped under make shift tents made of old tattered and worn tarps. 

A local woman was set up on a corner and selling grilled street corn, it was cooked in a shopping cart with a little fire that burned in the seat area that one would place their toddler. There was fresh coconut milk and ripe mangoes, star fruit to die for and spices galore. 

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View from Fort Frederick.So many spices, the aroma of the area wafted in the way of the wind. The scent of cinnamon and nutmeg filled the streets. But mostly, this trip to Grenada was spent under the surface of the water, learning how to scuba dive. And a most excellent adventure that turned out to be! 

A Little History

Timing was the reason President Ronald Reagan launched the invasion of Grenada in 1983. Americans were still demoralized from their defeat in Vietnam and the humiliating hostage crisis in Iran. 

A senior British officer who watched the Grenada invasion from nearby Barbados, Maj. Mark Adkin, wrote afterward that he believed the war was launched because of "the intense desire of the president and his advisers to raise U.S. prestige, particularly at home and in the armed forces, where morale and self-respect had fallen substantially since Vietnam."

In 1979, a handful of leftists calling themselves the New Jewel Movement seized power in Grenada. Their charismatic leader, the British-educated Maurice Bishop, turned out to be an admirer of Fidel Castro. Some of his comrades, however, considered him insufficiently radical. In October of 1983, they executed him. That gave Reagan his chance. Reagan had come into office pledging to restore American glory and was looking for a place to flex the country's military muscle. He had sent Marines to intervene in Lebanon's civil war, but that had not provided the quick victory he had wanted.

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Sandal's dive boats on the beach.Operation Urgent Fury was also an extreme example of asymmetric warfare. It was meant above all as a show of force, and it stunned the Central American and Caribbean left. Inside the Reagan administration, it was seen as a triumph. One final legacy of this invasion is what did not happen afterward.

It would have been cheap and simple for the United States to turn Grenada into a model of Caribbean prosperity and thereby to suggest that being conquered by Americans is a good thing. Instead, the U.S. quickly moved on. In 2007 Grenada co-hosted the Cricket World Cup in a brand-new $40 million stadium. It was paid for by the People's Republic of China. Enough said about that.

Discover and Explore

As great as staying at an all inclusive resort can be, I sometimes find myself feeling trapped. I highly recommend getting out and exploring the surrounding areas. Yes, gated communities are gated for a reason, however Grenada is very safe and I totally recommend touring the island.

Y

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Dog on the beach.ou could grab a taxi and do your own thing or you could sign up for a land tour with Island Routes. Island Routes is a local tour company that will show you the time of your life and also enlighten you about all things Grenada.

I’m a women who travels alone much of the time and I felt extremely safe on this island. In fact, I felt extremely safe thirty years ago on this island. I believe everyone should get out and meet the local people, go to the markets, drink a local beer, dine at a local restaurant.

You should learn the culture and see the land. If you don’t, your vacation destination becomes a bubble of fantasy, all your amenities are trapped under one umbrella. I suppose the beauty of all-inclusiveness and of less adventurous people would be that you don’t have to go anywhere if you don’t want to.

Perhaps you just want to float around in the pool with a frozen umbrella drink, that’s perfectly expectable too, and Sandals LaSource in Grenada makes the perfect setting to do just that, it’s location in the middle of paradise will awe you and they make a great Pina Colada too.

Grenada is more than just an island, it’s an island nation. It consists of Grenada and six smaller islands at the southern end of the Grenadines in the southeastern Caribbean Sea. Grenada is located northwest of Trinidad and Tobago, northeast of Venezuela, and southwest of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines.

Be sure to keep a look out for the Grenada national bird, the Grenada Dove, as it’s critically endangered and I was told that there is only about one hundred left. The currency in Grenada is the EC, (East Caribbean dollar) although credit cards and the US dollar are also welcomed.

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At the sculpture park in Grenada.Be sure to visit the almost two-mile long Grand Anse Beach while you're there. Also be sure to buy some Grenada Chocolate bars cultivated straight from the organic cocao that grows on the island. An important aspect of Grenadian culture is the tradition of story-telling, with folk tales both with African and French influences. The character Anancy, a spider who is a trickster, originated in West Africa, but is prevalent on Grenada as well.

The Art of Holding Your Breath Underwater

Breathing underwater doesn’t come naturally to people, it’s not normal. So it’s understandable that I was a little nervous as I listened to the tutorial about how to teach myself to do just that. The top notch team of very friendly and extremely knowledgeable Dive Masters at Sandals LaSource Grenada made that fear disappear. I started out in the morning at the hotel pool learning the basics and soon after that I found myself at the bottom of the Ocean reminding my self to breath as I explored Grenada’s Underwater Sculpture Park.

I dove one time about a year ago in Madagascar in the Indian Ocean. I was excited to jump into the ocean for my first time. I never wanted to be the person in the hotel pool, and as exciting as that was, I didn’t really learn the art of Scuba.

It was more about put this in your mouth and don’t lose it! I recall my jaw aching for hours after that experience as I clenched the mouth piece so hard I felt that I had developed lockjaw. This time around was nothing of the sort.

I was taught to actually lose my mouth piece and I learned to recover it. The best part of diving in Grenada is that when you choose to stay at the Sandals LaSource Resort the dive trips are all included. You can’t beat that!

It’
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Higher up view of Grand Anse beach.s totally free for certified divers, as many dives as you can do. There is a small fee for uncertified divers such as myself, but the experience to follow was well worth it. Plus, you make that up at the hotel as you never have a restaurant or bar bill.

Be sure to check out the Molinere Underwater Sculpure Park if you go. It’s a collection of ecological underwater contemporary art. It was created by British Sculpture Jason deCaires Taylor, in May of 2006 and is the world’s first underwater sculpture park.

He installed cement figures onto the ocean floor, mostly consisting of human forms, with the largest sculpture being a group of children holding hands in a circle. As you can imagine being underwater for nine years, the sculptures have all taken on a life of their own.

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Afro-Grendians and Indo-Grenadians

The majority of Grenadine citizens are descendants of the African Slaves brought there by the English and the French, (about 80%) a few are indigenous Carib and Arawak Indians who survived the French purge at Sauteurs. Today, Grenadians of Indian descent comprise the second largest ethnic group.

Grenada, like many of the Caribbean islands is subject to a fair amount of poverty and a large amount of migration, with a large number of young people wanting to leave the island in seek of a better life, while others flocking to Grenada in seek of a better life.

With the population being about 110,000 people living in Grenada and the official spoken language being English with a flair of Grenadian and French Creole mixed in, it makes for an adventurous fabulous vacation destination. What more could you ask for? Friendly people, azure blue water, lush green mountains, the aroma of spices filling the air and lots to do all nestled in and around the most beautiful place in the world, the Caribbean Sea.'

All in all a visit to this paradise should be on everyone’s bucket list. The lush mountainous views, perfect blue harbors, white crystal like, sandy beaches and friendly people, combined with some of the best diving in the world makes Grenada an ideal vacation destination, it’s an uber inviting place to visit, to enjoy and to explore.

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Market lady on market day.


My base of operations at the Sandals La Source Grenada was a home away from home. The Sandals Resorts recently assumed operations at the all inclusive resort located on a sprawling 17 acre lot and refurbished the entire resort in only nine short months.

Many of the hotel’s guests are repeat Sandals customers, and why not? It’s the best bargain in the Windwards and it’s close proxcimity to the airport makes it easy to get to. Even with 225 luxury rooms, with 69 of them offering Butler service the friendly staff still manages to lends a warm intimacy.

Sandals allows you to be as busy or as lax with activites as you choose, world class diving, sailing, snorkeling, kayaking, playing games, or just rejuvenating our souls. Add 10 top restaurants to choose from with all the food and drink you can handle!

From the Five Star Butch’s Chophouse to the freshest sushi throughout the Caribbean and rich Italian pastas to savory Caribbean barbecue, even a gourmet hot dog cart is available, your hunger will have met its match. A terrific home base, and beautiful beaches. Sandals La Source Grenada truly has something for everyone.

Uruguay: South America’s Best Kept Secret

It is South America’s best kept secret. This secret destination has a World Heritage site, a plethora of beaches, thermal spas, working guest ranches, friendly people, and a tranquil ambiance that is hard to find in today’s frantic world. Tucked between Brazil and Argentina, two of South American “tourist biggies,” is Uruguay. It is a nice place to visit and, yes, you just might want to live there. You might even be one of those tourists who is seeking a little herbal pleasure--in Uruguay, marijuana is now legal. 

Wooed in the Capital 

Montevideo, the capital, doesn’t wow visitors it woos them. As the southernmost South American capital, it is home to half the country's 3.5 million people whose diversity has influenced the architecture, food, and celebrations. Located on the banks of the Río de la Plata, the city started as a Spanish fortress that became a major port in the mid-18th century luring Spanish, Portuguese, French, Italian, and British immigrants. 

Most of the historic aspects of Montevideo can be conquered in a day but the charm is found when wandering along La Rambla. The Ramble stretches along the water from the Old City to the neighborhood of Carrasco past parks and beaches dotted with fishermen, bathers, street performers, and home to the popular weekend Port Market


Montevideo lets all the stops out during Carnaval. It is not as commercially popular as Rio’s, but it is the country’s biggest party and includes Semana Criolla where participants recreate rural Creole life with equine activities, music, story telling and songs. 

Wowed on the coast

Looking to be wowed by a 5-Star world-class hotel on a beach? Then head to Punta del Este, a coastal destination that has attracted visitors for more than100 years. It is where the beautiful people play and second only to Rio as the place to be seen in South America. There are beautiful beaches, whale and seal watching boat trips, great restaurants, Vegas-style shows, casinos, art galleries, golfing, and everything one would expect from a world class destination. Punta del Este is proud of its weeklong Carnaval that rivals Montevideo’s.

A favorite spot to enjoy a spectacular sunset is Punta Ballena only 10 minutes from the heart of Punta del Este. Punta Ballena is also home to the unique Casapueblo. The architecture of the rambling home, studio, and hotel created by artist Paez Villero brings to mind peaks of whipped cream. 

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Beach at the Conrad hotel at Punta del Este, Uruguay.Visitors looking for something less Miami-like need only head east or west of Punta del Este to find quiet, laid-back places like Punta del Diablo, a little fishing-surfing village of wooden cabins and winding dirt streets plus miles of sandy beaches to wander. With over 400 miles of coastline there is a beach to wow everyone.

Wandering in Colonia

West of Montevideo is Colonia del Sacramento, an UNESCO World Heritage City, and a great place to wander along the cobblestone streets. Dating from the 17th century, the old city boasts a beautifully preserved colonial ambiance. While it is easy to view the entire historic area in a couple of hours, visitors find themselves sitting for hours at one of the alfresco dining areas. 

One of the restaurants, El Drugstore Café, has the interior of a 1920s Model T Ford set up as a private dining area. Antique car lovers will think they are in car heaven. Well-preserved antique cars are a common sight in Colonia as well as the rest of Uruguay. 

Occasionally the pulsating rhythm of Candombe can be heard on the streets and in the restaurants. Dancing to the beat of barrel-shaped drums that recall the ceremonial processions from the days of African slavery are the historical personages Mama Vieja, Gramillero, and Escobillero chasing away the bad spirits and encouraging the good ones. 

Located on the Rio de la Plata, Colonia offers accommodations in colonial buildings in the historic district and first-class hotels with river views plus the Balinese-style Four Seasons Carmelo is only an hour away. The Four Seasons was the choice of singer Shakira, the actor Robert Duvall, and other notables who wanted to keep the paparazzi at bay.

Getting in hot water

While Montevideo, Punta del E

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ste, and Colonia are the most popular tourist destinations, the thermals north of Colonia near Salto are all-season destinations. In the 1940s while drilling for oil, pockets of pure hot water were discovered that led to the development of resort hotels. 

The Hotel Horacio Quiroga, located on the Rio Uruguay, is just one of several resorts with thermal pools, a water park, spa, golfing, sailboat rides, and nightly events that include tango dance lessons. The temperature of the pure water in the pools and piped to the accommodations averages about 104 degree Fahrenheit and is considered therapeutic. Tours of the Salto Grande Dam and several museums are close by. 

Working Farms

The interior of the Uruguay is mainly farmland and where visitors can really feel the pulse of Uruguay while staying on an Estancia Turistica, a working ranch. Dotted throughout the country most estancias offer excellent accommodations with the opportunity to get up close and personal with the day-to-day running of a ranch, maybe even riding with the gauchos. 

Each estancia is different with many offering bird watching, horseback riding, and other eco-related activities. La Paz Estanc

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La Paz sheep ranch.ia, near Paysandu, was one of the first tourist ranches. It continues as a Charolais breeding farm and sheep ranch.

La Paz has maintained its rustic character with accommodations in an historic 1860s building, their own church, and plenty of open space to breathe free but it also has a pool and a small spa. Guests can help herd the sheep if they so wish, enjoy the spa, or, best of all, do nothing.

Wining and Dining

Still a niche player in the world of wine, Uruguay boasts some 300 wineries with a wine heritage that goes back to Spanish immigrants who introduced grapevines over 250 years ago.

At the Carros de San Juan winery, near Colonia, visitors have the opportunity to taste “tannat,” a local red wine with an extremely tannic nature that often requires years of aging to become drinkable. However, the most common libation is “mate,” a tea prepared by steeping dried leaves of the yerba mate. It is the national drink of Uruguay.

It is a common sight to see Uruguayans carrying what appears to be over-sized leather binocular cases. They hold the water thermos, calabash drinking gourd, and metal sipping straw for their mate. With three-fourths of the land dedicated to grazing beef lovers will enjoy excellent Uruguayan steaks along with their wine and mate.

Way to Go

Pie-shaped Uruguay is the second smallest country in South America after Suriname and about the size of Washington State. It is sometimes referred to as the "New Zealand” or “Switzerland” of South America," due to its peaceful democracy, strong agricultural economy, and highly literate population.

Direct flights to Uruguay are basically nonexistent but the fun way to get there is by the one-hour Buquebus ferry from Buenos Aires to Montevideo or Colonia. Within Uruguay bus connections are frequent and reasonable, but the roads are good and fairly devoid of traffic making renting a car an excellent option. The climate is mild but remember “beach time” is during the South American summer – December to March.

Uruguay is a place that visitors like to tell their friends about when they return home. “Uruguay is a great place, it has amazing beaches and…,” then stop mid-sentence and think, “Do I really want people to know what a wonderful destination it is? Will telling people ruin it? Should I keep it a secret?” The truth is that a secret this wonderful needs to be shared. For more information check www.uruguaynatural.com.

Detour: Delaware’s Routes

If you’ve crossed Delaware off your bucket list of the 50 states just because you’ve traveled the 20 some-odd miles of I-95 that pass by Wilmington, you’ve done yourself a great disserviceSure, you’ll have a picture postcard snapshot of the tidy skyline of downtown Wilmington, but you’ll have missed the intrinsic history and natural beauty of our often overlooked gem. Here are some ideas on how to explore Delaware’s “roots.”


Route 52

You won’t get Delaware until you understand the du Pont story, which happens to begin right off Route 52 on the banks of the Brandywine River at Hagley Museum. 

E.I du Pont, a French immigrant, founded black powder mills here, seeding the legacy which forever binds Delaware and the du Ponts. While the setting seems idyllic now, your experience at Hagley will reveal a vivid picture of the gritty, perilous life on a 19th century munitions factory. 

As you travel north on Route 52, there is a sense for the prosperity that the once mightier du Pont company brought to generations of Delawareans. The legions of runners and bikers along Route 52 are far more likely to draw their wages from healthcare or credit card banking today, but that gentile affluence remains an integral part of life in northern New Castle County. And, send your regards to our Vice President as you pass by; Mr. Biden lives not too far away.

Should you spot a barrel by a mail box with a small flag flying on the left hand side of the road as you progress north, you’ll be lucky enough to have found Twin Lakes Brewery, even little known to many residents. 

Set on a 200 year-old farm, the brew-masters have created a charming little reception room for tours and tasting. Be sure to see the giant unfurled American flag painted on the barn roof. Get a “growler” to go.

Krazy Kats
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Old time family fun on the Boardwalk at Rehoboth.
If you are hungry by now, take a quick right on to Kirk Road to momentarily arrive in Montchanin. Stand in the parking lot of Krazy Kat’s restaurant and do a 360 and you’ll be able to pretty much take in the whole of this tiny village. 

You’ll see the delightfully restored homes of, you guessed it, 19th century mill workers at the du Pont black powder mills a few miles away. Today, there’s also a funky, feline restaurant, an inn and spa, but that’s about it.

No place else will you begin to grasp the enormous wealth and power of the du Pont family than at Winterthur. Back on Route 52, it’s just a little over a mile north of Kirk Road.

While E.I du Pont bought the land which now features the magnificent home and gardens, it was E. I.’s daughter who first lived on the property beginning in 1839.

Winterthur presents an astounding collection of fine arts, special exhibits, and horticulture as well as a mesmerizing view into this amazing family story.

Just before the Pennsylvania state line, you’ll find Centreville, offering hospitality to the weary traveler for centuries. Today’s favored loitering spot is Buckley’s Tavern where it is not hard to imagine you’re watering your horse and buggy out front, that is, except for the parking lot full of Mercedes.

Route 9

Next, plot yourself in Old New Castle on the map and step into living history. The streets of Old New Castle rival Williamsburg in charm, but they’re real and so precious that the district was awarded National Historic Park status in 2013.

The three counties of Delaware were all part of the William Penn land grant from England in 1680, however New Castle was already claimed by the Dutch in 1651. English and Swedish also vied for control, but when Penn laid foot to ground in 1682, he set about claiming boundaries and establishing borders, including the ill-fated crescent which comprises the northern border of Delaware with Pennsylvania.

Today's Hagley belies its gritty history.
The Wedge

The arc was drawn from a point atop the New Castle Courthouse, but someone must have flunked geometry because the semi-circle failed to match at the proper western point and thus, we now have the area of Delaware called The Wedge.

Orient yourself south and begin the meander down Route 9 toward Lower Delaware. Here the bustle of the north gives way to marshes and farmland, endearingly called Slower Delaware.

Route 9 parallels the Delaware River past neighborhoods and soccer fields to arrive in the midst an oil refinery. This too is the heritage of industry and commerce that the Delaware River has brought to our region and why the port of New Castle was so important centuries ago. In Delaware, we are just grateful that the prevailing winds take the refinery fumes to the East. Sorry, New Jersey.
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Sea gulls await lunch.
Don’t blink or you’ll pass Delaware City, and you don’t want to miss the ferry to Fort Delaware. It takes little imagination to sense the spirits of civil war soldiers as you explore the cavernous, dank interior of the antique Alcatraz of the East.

Passing over the C&D Canal on Route 1 provides for a pretty view, but pondering this engineering feat nearly 200 years old is well worth the pause.

The 14-mile dredged canal connects the Chesapeake and Delaware bays, where private watercraft ride the wakes of giant barges, while bicyclists and joggers pepper the shores along a newly created greenway path.

Further south in Kent County, you’ll arrive at Bombay Hook National Wildlife Refuge, a place of pristine nature and serenity. Here there are far more birds than binoculars and the eagles are making a resounding comeback.

Route 1

Route 1 begins far in the northernmost county of Delaware, but it delivers the throngs of weekenders most expeditiously to Sussex County where the character of the state takes on yet another personality.

Although Rehoboth Beach can’t claim to have the only iconic, beachy boardwalk on the Atlantic Coast, it scores on all the elements of the quintessential summer holiday postcard: colorful beaches, bustling shop-lined streets, arcades, salt water taffy and ever watchful meter-readers.

Stop in Rehoboth if you want to do things; venture further south on Route 1 if you want to do nothing. The Delaware National Seashore Park spans the isthmus between the Rehoboth Bay and the Atlantic Ocean, sometimes wind whipped in a spray of sand pellets, but always full of natural beauty and ready for a picnic.
By the numbers, Delaware lays claim to being the First State and second smallest.

Lisbon: The Edge of Europe

Walking through history in Portugal's bustling capital

By Neil Middleton

The Atlantic breeze flowing along the broad Tagus and climbing the hills of Lisbon was a gentle and welcome reminder that I'm teetering on edge of the European continent. As the western most European capital, Lisbon is at the end of Europe. But this is not a hemmed in backwater of a city. Instead Lisbon's position on the rocky edge of one world opened it up to new worlds across the vast grey mass of the Atlantic Ocean.

Though the Atlantic crashes into the shore just a few miles away down the river Tagus, Lisbon has a relaxed, elegant feel. Spacious squares decorated in swirls of black and white paving are connected by long straight roads. Aging yellow tram cars trapeze up and down steep hills. The city is awash with color, its buildings covered in acres of blue, yellow and green tiles. The odd missing piece and crumbling façade only adding a touch of artistic decay.

A good part of Lisbon's charm is owed to the fact that, unlike many European capitals, it was not devastated by the ravages  

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of the World Wars. There was no need to reconstruct the city from scratch and much is original. Not that the city has always been so fortunate.

The elegant city of fountains and squares was born out of one of Europe's greatest natural disasters. In 1755, a massive earthquake was followed by a tsunami which overwhelmed the lower parts of the city. The devastation swept away thousands of people and buildings leaving the city centre a blank slate.

Pre-Earthquake Lisbon

It's not impossible to find traces of the pre-earthquake city though. To do so I just had to head up hill. There are meant to be seven hills in Lisbon so walking around requires constant mini-hikes. In the summer this can be a mild torture but once at the top, the breeze and the view are worth it.

The angle differs from each hill but is always dominated by the terracotta of the city's roof tiles punctuated by the odd church spire or cathedral dome.  You'll also see cruise ships on weekends disgorging their vast armies of tourists into the city from their berths right on the riverbank.

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A yellow trolley chugs up a narrow Lisbon street.

Belem by Foot or by Bike

Descending in a criss-cross of winding lanes from the castle, the Alfama neighborhood is a tenuous link to Lisbon's Moorish past which survived the destruction of 1755. 

Characterised by narrow tightly packed streets and cramped little squares, I was forever getting lost in Alfama.

Eventually I memorized a few favorite pieces of the tiled mosaics which line the walls so I could find my way around. Large parts of Lisbon are decorated in tiles, azulejo, with blue on white being the traditional scheme. Sometimes they are arranged in simple geometric patterns but often they form detailed mosaic images. 

image: http://www.gonomad.com/images/Aarticle-images/Lisbon/jeronimos_monastery.JPG
Jeronimos monastery in Lisbon.Even when chipped or broken, as they often are in run down Alfama, the azulejo beautifully and colorfully adorn the city. Famously, the neighborhood is home to Fado, the traditional music of Lisbon, and in the warm evenings the streets are animated by its melancholic notes fluttering out of bars and restaurants.

Leaving behind Lisbon's Muslim heritage, I took a tram along the Tagus river to the district of Belem. This flat piece of ground on the river bank is forever linked to Portugal's Age of Discovery as it was the launch point for the famous voyages of exploration which opened up the world from the end of the 15th century.

In 1497 Vasco da Gama, after a night of prayer at Belem, sailed down the Tagus and off toward India.

Belem is a great place to discover by bike. Check out the guided bike tours offered by Bike Iberia, or rent a few bikes for your own adventure on the city's nine-kilometer bike trail along the Tagus river. Read more about biking in Lisbon on Max Hartshorne's blog.

Belem's Famous Pastry

image: http://www.gonomad.com/images/Aarticle-images/Lisbon/pasties_de_Nata.JPG
Pasties de Nata, famous in Lisbon.Belem's other claim to fame is pastry. Getting off the tram, I headed straight into a large queue stretching out the door and around the corner of the blue tiled shop said to be the home of the pasteis de nata.

Ubiquitous in Lisbon, the pasteis de nata are extremely sweet custards filling a flaky pastry base which is then baked close to burnt. With my sweet tooth sated I moved on to the Jeronimos Monastery.

The ornate monastery building is held to be the height of the native Portuguese Manuline style of architecture. Manuline style created a series of buildings covered in elaborately carved details. With the voyages of discovery under way, architects drew on a great number of influences when building Jeronimos.

The monastery's gleaming white façade is ornamented by a series of short spires and spikes. The doors and arches of the monastery are surrounded by numerous small sculptures and intricate details. Jeronimos is not the heavy dark religious building of northern Europe which bares down on the visitor. Instead it fits in with Lisbon's general light elegance.

Inside the monastery, Vasco da Gama is entombed beneath a stone effigy laying on its back with hands upright and clasped in prayer. Another fine example of Manuline style sits close to the monastery.

image: http://www.gonomad.com/images/Aarticle-images/Lisbon/torre_de_Belem.JPG
Torre de Belem, Lisbon's symbol on the Tagus riverfront.The Torre de Belem now serves as Portugal's national symbol and icon. Though built as a 16th century defensive tower, it is clear that the architects wanted something which served an aesthetic and not just defensive purpose. As a result the squat tower looks closer to a work of art than an instrument of war.

Mercado da Ribeira

A real highlight in Lisbon was built in 2014, when the Mercado da Ribeira was created, from a vast food warehouse to an airy collection of food stalls, wine bars and cafes, all arranged in a rectangle. You choose from the country's top chefs, who cook for you in their small booths and join strangers at long tables.

 As the Tagus gently laps against the Torre de Belem it is easy to see the river as a calm benign force allowing the city to turn its position on the edge of Europe into an advantage. Come November 1755 however, this charmed relationship with the water turned sour.

There are few surviving fragments of the city which was washed away by the tsunami and most of the Baixa neighbourhood was built as part of a huge reconstruction project. The result is a logical town plan which creates a great contrast with the older, less ordered neighborhoods such as Alfama. Long, straight streets connect a series of squares centred on statues, columns and fountains. Walking along these streets was not the traffic choked stress inducing experience most cities offer but a calm shaded stroll beneath the trees.

Lisboa Story Center 

There is an impressive exhibit here below the tower that takes visitors back to the terrible day of November 1, 1755, when a huge earthquake almost totally destroyed the city of Lisbon and surroundings. With motion, sound effects and creative use of projectors you get to experience the event and learn about what happened during the 8.5 richter scale disaster. Lisboa Story Centre

The squares of Baixa are lined by various cafés, hotels and restaurants. Sitting in one café, I watched the shadow of the setting sun slowly spread across a pattern of black and white paving stones. The sounds were gentle,the splashing water of the fountains and the rattling and bells of trams. The flaky pastry of a pasteis de nata crumbled at the touch and there certainly didn't seem to be any roughness to this edge of Europe.

Read more at http://www.gonomad.com/destinations-xxx/5830-portugal-highlights-of-lisbon-on-europe-s-edge#85RRyaO3H4veDg2O.99

6 Favorite Moments In Beautiful Valletta Malta

If you’re even a casual reader of this site, then you probably will remember that my visit to Malta was the culmination of years of pining. It neared the top of my travel bucket list and, for the most part, the experience was just as great as I had hoped. The highlight though for me was exploring the beautiful city of Valletta Malta for the first time. The capital of Malta quickly became a personal favorite and I understood instantly why so many people rave about this city perched above the harbor. It’s hard though sometimes to explain exactly why a place is special and so I decided to share the experience by looking at a few of my very favorite moments in the grand city of Valletta, Malta.

1. First walk down Republic Street – Many first time visitors to Valletta come from the bus terminal and enter onto the seemingly always busy Republic Street. This central road really is the heart of the touristy side of Valletta, a fact not lost to any visitor based on the huge numbers of people I always found there. But the frenetic pace of walking down the long, straight boulevard was part of the experience, at least for me. It was also a fantastic way to get to know the city a little bit better and to get my bearings during that first hour or so in the city.

2. St. John’s Co-Cathedral – I love history and for a variety of reasons, the history of the Knights of St. John – otherwise known as the Knights of Malta – has been a passion of mine for nearly 20 years. So to walk through the main door of the massive St. John’s Co-Cathedral, the home church of the knights for centuries, was almost too much for this nerdy traveler to take. From a purely cosmetic level, the church is stunning and hours could be spent admiring the golden apse and chapels, each representing different regions from which the knights hailed. But once you start to add in the little bits of history found throughout the massive church, that’s when things start to get really interesting. It was here that Caravaggio was defrocked as a knight, at the same spot where his famous painting The Beheading of Saint John the Baptistnow rests. Even if you’re not as much into the Knights of Malta as I am, I have no doubt that you’ll love exploring what is truly one of the most beautiful churches in the world.

3. Upper Barrakka Gardens – This isn’t a hidden sight or a special tip, nearly every tourist spends some time in the Upper Barrakka Gardens, and with good reason. It’s from here that one of the best views of the Grand Harbour and the massive fortifications that kept this island nation safe for so very long can best be seen. Across the harbor are the Three Cities, Cospicua, Vittoriosa, and Senglea, and the views from the gardens are so iconic and famous that it feels like you’ve stepped into a postcard. Every day the watch canons are fired, a hokey but surprisingly interesting experience if you happen to be there at the right time. Like most things in Malta though, expect the show to start late.

4. Getting lost – This is easily done in Valletta, which, while a planned city, can at times be a labyrinth of streets and alleyways. But that’s part of the great charm of the city and why I fell so very deeply in love with it. The hills in Valletta are legendary, and walking down the imposing stairways to the waterfront below is daunting physically, but rewarding aesthetically. Plus, you never know what you’ll find until you get lost. I wandered into churches, museums, shops and cafes I would never have found had I actually tried to find them.

Another relaxing cafe on a side street

5. Coffee and people watching – Relaxing at a café and enjoying a coffee and maybe some cake isn’t just popular in Malta, it may just be the national sport. Luckily there are plenty of places to practice this culinary pastime and enjoy some excellent people watching at the same time. It’s touristy and goes against my normal travel advice, but I recommend grabbing a coffee at any of the many outdoor cafes along Republic Street. The luxuriously shaded cafés are gorgeous and worthy of a visit in their own right, but their key position along the town’s major thoroughfare means an almost endless gallery of people to watch and inwardly judge.

6. Looking at it from Senglea – My very favorite moment in Valletta though didn’t actually happen in the city proper. No, it happened right across the Grand Harbour in Sengelea, one the Three Cities. There I sat, enjoying a relaxing and appropriately slow-paced Mediterranean dinner and watched as the sun began to set, turning Valletta into a golden city. It was a moment that I know I will never forget, it was that beautiful and that special. This is what people want when they visit Mediterranean Europe; this is the moment of complete satisfaction and contentment that is so very hard to find almost anywhere else in the world.

Gozo: Where It Is And Why You Should Visit

Before last year, I had never heard of Gozo before, and I would venture to guess that there are millions out there like me. Gozo is one of the islands of Malta, a small nation in the Mediterranean south of Italy. While a trip to Malta had long been on my imaginary, non-bucket bucket list, Gozo was new to me and I honestly didn’t know what to expect before first setting foot on the second largest island of the archipelago. After a few days of calling the island home though, I got to know it and after much reflection, I think I can offer some reasons why you should add this somewhat unlikely location to your own non-bucket, bucket list.

Malta is an archipelago, which means it’s a series of islands. The largest is, predictably, Malta, but coming in at a close second is Gozo. I know, the name sounds made up – like a Muppets character gone awry – but you’ll get used to that on Malta, the language is a strange amalgam of Arabic, Italian, English and who knows what else. Within the country and even around Europe, Gozo is known as a quiet place, a destination designed for not doing much of anything. In fact, many Maltese have vacation homes on Gozo, to escape the hustle and bustle of Valletta I guess.

It’s also easy to reach, most get there by taking the short ferry ride from Malta, the terminal for which is about 45 minutes from the capital city of Valletta. If you’re traveling on your own, you’ll need to do your own research to figure out the somewhat confusing public transportation system, or you can just hire one of the very expensive cabs found on the island. While it is ideal to rent a car in my opinion, especially if you want to explore Gozo, you’ll have to learn how to deal with Maltese traffic and drivers, which fall on the driving spectrum somewhere between Crazy and Absolutely Manic. Once you get there though you won’t regret some of the small hassles, because Gozo delivers on all of its travel promises and then some.

Things to keep in mind

Pace of life – Since we’re talking about a group of islands, Mediterranean ones at that, I should’ve realized that the pace of things was going to be a little slower than I am used to. But even I couldn’t have been prepared for just how laid back the Maltese are. As a Type A American, I met my match with a culture that places emphasis on not worrying very much and tackling things when they need to. Sounds logical I know, but it took me a few days to fall into this slower pace of life. The best thing to do is to just accept it and go with the flow. Understand that some things may take a little longer than normal and learn to be ok with that.

Eat everything and talk to everyone – This is great advice no matter where you go, but it was especially beneficial to me on Malta. The history of the islands is honestly a fascinating one, and the various waves of migration and colonization have created a culture that is without parallel in the world; from its language down to the food. Most of the food you’ll find around Malta won’t seem that strange. Lots of Italian influence means some of those classic meals you enjoy in Italy can be found on the islands as well. But there is a rich tradition of farming and agriculture, especially on Gozo, so also expect to find lots of delicious, locally prepared dishes. My favorite Maltese food was homemade ravioli stuffed with goat cheese prepared earlier in the day. It doesn’t get any fresher than that and the reward was a sumptuous meal prepared with care and finesse. The Maltese are proud, especially of their food, so don’t forget to learn more about the culture through your stomach.

Exploration ideas

Swimming in the crystal blue waters – More than anything else, Gozo is probably best known for the beautiful waters that surround it. The most popular attraction is actually on the nearby and smaller island of Comino – the Blue Lagoon. Not to be confused with its Icelandic namesake, this lagoon is actually a real lagoon and the azure blue waters are some of the most inviting you’ll ever see. The best way to explore the grottoes and swimming holes around Gozo itself is by hiring a local captain to take you out on a boat. From hidden beaches tucked away in caves, to gorgeous swimming spots, they’ll know the best places to visit. One of my favorite moments was sitting back on the boat under the warm Maltese sun, dipping my feet in the tepid water and feeling all of my stress melt away. There really is nothing quite like it.

Beautiful landscapes – Standing on top of the ancient walls of the Citadel is when it first hit me. Gozo is not your typical island getaway. Sure, the beaches are great but the interior is typically Mediterranean, which means scrubby landscapes that are honestly beautiful in their own way. I couldn’t tear my eyes from the hills and towns surrounding us and I couldn’t have known it at the time, but that was just the first of many such beautiful encounters. I fell deeper and deeper in love with Gozo’s landscapes as I saw more of this small island. From vineyards to the coastal bluffs, there’s a lot of variety and all of it is absolutely stunning. The best way to experience it for yourself is to hop in a car or on a bus and just see as much of it as you can. Luckily, Gozo isn’t very big and so experiencing the best of its unusual geology can easily be done in a single day.

Exploring Victoria – Sitting in a cafe, slowly drinking an expertly prepared espresso and watching the island walk by. Without a doubt, that simple moment was my favorite spent in Victoria, the capital city of Gozo. Also known by the local name Rabat, tourists often travel through Victoria but far too few spend time really exploring it. Reflective of the island it calls home, Victoria is not large but it doesn’t have to be, you’ll see right away what makes this city so very special. Whether it’s the views from the imposing Citadel and Basilica or just wandering along the curvy roads that reveal beautiful architecture and private moments of perfection, you’ll quickly see what makes this city and island so much fun to explore. If you’re looking for a quick bite or a cup of coffee, stop by Jubilee off the main square. Although it’s a Maltese chain of three restaurants, the food is local and delicious and the atmosphere can’t be beat.

Prehistoric past – The Maltese islands have been a popular place for a long time, and Gozo is no exception. While most visitors know about its more recent history, it’s the prehistoric past that has put the island on the global map. Seven megalithic temples found both on Malta and Gozo are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and in my personal opinion they are not to be missed. More than 5,500 years old, the temples are some of the oldest surviving religious buildings in the world and just standing there in front of the entrance to these Bronze Age marvels is an experience almost like none other. My brain struggled to grapple with the crushing weight of history that this site has witnessed, from important ceremonies at the dawn of Western Civilization to events we will never fully comprehend. More than just an important historical site, the temple complex has a certain beauty in its own right. Looking around and gazing across the nearby valleys, you can immediately see why this spot was so important to our ancient cousins and you feel like the latest iteration in a remarkable chain of continuous reverence.

Do nothing – As an active traveler I admittedly struggled when I first arrived on Gozo. I looked for activities, places to go and things to see. While the island does offer all that, it’s not why it’s so popular. As one of the most beautiful and relatively untouched islands in the Mediterranean, the best thing to do on Gozo is nothing at all. I stayed in a rented condo, locally referred to as a farmhouse stay, which is how most people visit the island. With friends or family, they rent a house or similar space, relax by the pool, cook amazing Maltese meals, drive down to the beach and that’s about it. Pace of life on Gozo is slow, and instead of fighting it, the most policy is to just give in and go with the flow. Spend a week there but act like a Gozitan, enjoy yourself, enjoy life and enjoy the experience for what it is.

42 Things I Love About the Costa Brava and the Girona Pyrenees in Spain

1. Learning how to make aioli the RIGHT way

2. Visit to Llívia, the only Catalan town surrounded by France

3. Eating dinner inside a volcano in Olot

4. Delicious and succulent ham, all the time and everywhere

5. Skiing at La Molina high in the mountains

6. Walking through the immaculately landscaped Santa Clotildes Botanical Gardens

7. Doing nothing at all but relax and enjoy the scenery

8. Some of the friendliest people in the world

9. Sampling locally produced cheese and bread in the Vall de Bianya

10. The beautiful bridges of Girona

11. Climbing to the top of the bell tower in Puigcerdà to see three countries at once: Spain, France and Andorra

12. Learning how to drink from a porron without making a mess

13. Dinner at one of the many Michelin star restaurants

14. The shockingly white buildings along the boardwalk at Cadaqués

15. Listening to the melodic sounds of a traditional Spanish guitar

16. Looking for Dali’s inspiration at Cap de Creus Natural Park

17. Interesting and sometimes somber Museum of Jewish History in Girona

18. Pa Amb Tomaquet

Llafranc, Costa Brava Spain

19. Biking along country roads amidst farms, churches and ancient towns

20. Staying at the 12th century nunnery Mas Garganta near Olot

21. Finding rest and spiritual solace at the remote Vall de Núria

22. Trying the popular Catalan after-dinner drink Ratafia

23. Hot air ballooning high over the Pyrenees mountains

24. Boating along the beautiful and rugged coast

25. Enjoying the local delicacy, mushrooms, in a thousand different ways

26. More ham

27. Trying your hand at mushroom hunting high in the wooded mountains

28. Strolling through any one of the many beautiful churches and monasteries found around the region

29. Walking around the cobble stones streets of the medieval village of Peratallada

30. Watching the sun set over the Mediterranean

31. Admiring the amazing views at Llafranc

32. Local dessert of dipping bread in red wine and then covering with sugar. It’s better than it sounds

33. Tickled nose at a cava tasting

34. Just walk along the streets of Girona, watch the people, stop for a snack and enjoy being in an amazing city

35. Hiking through the mountain valleys near El Mallol

36. Easting with locals at a fisherman’s hut

37. Learning the art and science of an expertly made gin and tonic

38. Wine, wine and more wine.

39. Eating at the #2 restaurant in the world, El Celler de Can Roca

40. Visit to ancient volcanoes in La Garrotxa

41. Climbing along the city walls of Girona

42. Touring the strangely beautiful Dali House and Museum