KILKENNY

Kilkenny, in the south-east of Ireland, is famous for its craftsmen and their sumptuous products. In the 1970s, the Irish government set up the Kilkenny Design Workshop in the bustling, town-sized city; and although it closed a decade or so later, it established an artistic enclave. The city itself sits among wheatlands and stud farms, dominated by a flamboyantly turreted Victorian castle that was home to the Anglo-Irish Butler family.

WHERE TO STAY

• KILGRANEY HOUSE

  Bagenalstown, Co Carlow(00 353 59 977 5283)
  'Country house B&B' doesn't really do justice toKilgraney House; it's an 18th/19th-century stuccoed demesne with a pretty lime avenue, about 25 minutes from Kilkenny. It's surrounded by outbuildings - including self-catering apartments and a charming spa - and herb gardens (open to the public). Owners Bryan Leech and Martin Marley are designers, and their textiles and artefacts sit well against the plain, elegant decor. They are also cracking cooks.

• BUTLER HOUSE

  16 Patrick Street(00 353 56 772 2828)
  Butler House is the stunning 1780s dower house opposite the castle, drenched in Virginia creeper. Pared down beds and black-leather sofas sit oddly in such finely proportioned period rooms, but the interiors are glorious, the views over the gardens a joy and the position perfect.

• PEMBROKE HOTEL

  11 Patrick Street(00 353 56 778 3500)
  The Pembroke Hotel has a business-like air, but rooms are bright and immaculate (some with castle views), the grill is packed at lunch and dinner and it's ideally located.

• WHERE TO EAT

  CAMPAGNE
  5 Gashouse Lane. (00 353 56 777 2858; www.campagne.ie; about €80 for two; closed Mon). Seek out Campagne - low-key and contemporary, with mint-green awnings - tucked away down a steep street. Sit on long, olive-coloured banquettes under bright paintings and prepare to eat well: Garrett Byrne worked at Chapter One in Dublin and has set up with his partner, Bríd Hannon, serving formal French food - using as much Irish produce as possible - in a friendly atmosphere.
  
  CAFE SOL
  6 William Street (00 353 56 776 4987; www.restaurantskilkenny.com; about €30). Café Solis a popular bistro with a cheery, red frontage and a heroic list of local suppliers; dishes include smoked Goatsbridge trout pâté and vegetarian treats such as roast vegetable loaf with pecans and hazelnuts.
  
  KILKENNY DESIGN CENTRE RESTAURANT
  Castle Yard (00 353 56 772 2118; www.kilkennydesign.com; about €30). The Kilkenny Design Centre Restaurant is a fine, airy space - once the quarters of the castle coachmen - with whitewashed walls and wooden beams. Kathleen Moran took it over, along with the shop, in 1989. It's the perfect place to eat home-cooked food over a glass of wine, or just dive in for excellent coffee. There's also a pantry-style deli, where oatcakes, breads, soups and specialities such as chicken-and-broccoli crumble with Lavistown cheese are all freshly made.
  
  BLUEBERRY LARDER
  2 Market Yard (00 353 56 776 1456; www.blueberrykilkenny.com; about €25). Pick up a picnic at Blueberry Larder: Will Fitzgerald has worked with Richard Corrigan, among others, and turns out good takeaway fare, seasonal where possible, including a tasty house terrine, and whiskey, honey and almond trifle.
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  WHAT TO DO

  Visit the light-filled National Craft Gallery in the Crescent Building, and pop into Rudolf Heltzel, the goldsmith's shop just over the road: Heltzel has now been joined by his son Christopher and they produce pieces of the highest quality; if they're not too busy, they may show you the workshop. Drive the Made in Kilkenny Craft Trail (leaflets available from the tourist office). The medieval fortress of Kilkenny Castle was given a thorough makeover in the 19th century. The decor is ponderous, but the Long Gallery, stuffed with Butler portraits, and the park, with its romantic vistas, are marvellous. Finally, sample the Gaelic games: peak hurling season is May to September, andNowlan Park is the place to enjoy it.