Beautiful Bosnia and Herzegovina
Bosnia and Herzegovina was the most surprising country to visit on my entire six-month trip around the Balkans. I really knew nothing about the place, but since I’d have to drive through there on my way from Montenegro to Croatia, I thought, why not? It’s now one of my favourite countries.
Its landscape is far more beautiful than you know
I don’t know what I imagined when I thought of Bosnia and Herzegovina, but it wasn’t mountain ranges or cascading waterfalls or rivers so vibrant green they look fake. It might not have the popular beach hotspots of the Dalmatian Coast, but it more than makes up for it in every other way.
Kravica Falls was the first place I visited on my trip, and it certainly set the tone for the rest of the journey. A dozen or so waterfalls flowed into a deep swimming area where one or two little waterside cafes perched on the banks. The water was an emerald green, and although it was freezing, my friends and I weren’t long stripping down and diving in.
There’s also the beautiful Bjelašnica mountain area, just a quick drive from the popular Ski Resort Babin Do. You can do an off-roading trip, rent some ATVs, or simply soak in the serenity of the hills.
Mostar Bridge
Mostar is like a fairytale
Perhaps the most popular image you’ll find from Bosnia and Herzegovina is of the famous Mostar Bridge (Stari Most), and for good reason. At 21 meters high and with a dramatic arch connecting two separate sides of the city, the bridge is more than a little iconic. It was originally built in the 1500s, but is now restored after it was bombed during the Yugoslavian War.
It’s hard to imagine this place as once a war-torn city. Nowadays its downtown core is a medieval mash-up of brick buildings, colorful storefronts, and a few mosques here and there. While several of the tourist shops sell your typical European wares, much of the owners are true artisans who have perfected the art of everything from handcrafted jewelry to leather making. And, of course, if you feel like handing over a few marks, you’re likely to even see a skilled diver jump off the Mostar Bridge. (Don’t try it yourself, though. Seriously.)
Visit Mostar from Dubrovnik
Sarajevo is one of the most fascinating cities in the Balkans
Sarajevo doesn’t quite have the medieval beauty of Mostar, but it’s one of the most interesting cities I’ve ever visited. Although it has recovered dramatically since the siege, there are little scars and reminders everywhere: buildings riddled with bullet holes, painted roses on the sidewalk to fill in where mortar shells exploded, and artists who craft art from empty bullet casings and bomb shells.
If you visit, find a day-tour guide who lived through the siege. The stories he or she will tell you will be overwhelming. You can also visit the Sarajevo Tunnel of Hope – an underground route that was used during the war to funnel goods from one side of the city to the other.
The assassination of Austrian Archduke Fran Ferdinand’s also took place here.
But Sarajevo is more than just a former war victim. It’s now a cosmopolitan city, a peaceful town where different cultures coexist happily, and home to a busy arts scene. Go to Kino Bosna, an old cinema turned into a bar. You’ll be serenaded by the dreamy local talent.
It’s cheap!
Considering you’re on the European continent, Bosnia and Herzegovina is incredibly cheap. You can get a fair sized meal at most restaurants with a few Sarajevkso beers, and the whole thing will come to about $12USD.
Beers are between $1-3USD. I tend to measure a country’s affordability by its beer prices, so I was quite pleased here. I also did a rafting trip on the Neretva River, which was about $40USD cheaper than my Montenegro rafting experience, and came with a delicious home-cooked meal.
The nicest people live here
I saw many examples of selflessness and friendliness during my visit. One time, after eating at a restaurant in Mostar, my friends and I left behind a generous tip for the wonderful service. The waitress chased us down the street and demanded that we take some complimentary beers for the road.
Another time, while near Bjelašnica, I did a daytrip to a mountain village. My British guide stopped on the roadside to talk to some locals about whether or not they had come across any chanterelles – extremely valuable in the country, and sold for a pretty penny. An elderly lady simply handed him a bag of mushrooms and sent him on his way. No money required. In an impoverished country, this speaks volumes.
A quiet village in Bosnia and Herzegovina
Laidback, old-fashioned village life
From Bjelašnica my friends and I visited Lukomir, a tiny traditional mountain village that was virtually untouched during the war. It’s the kind of place where the roofs of homes are made of tin barrels beaten flat, and little old toothless ladies tend to their potato gardens. Of course, there’s a satellite dish here and there, but otherwise you can’t help but feel you’ve stepped back into the 1800s.
Another is Vrelo, a village in the Republika Srpska. Other than traditional buildings and homes, you’ll find some gorgeous waterfalls in the area.
If you’re a meat lover, eat your heart out
I can’t deny it: I live for cevapi, the favored dish of Bosnia and Herzegovina (and several other Balkan countries). It’s a traditional kebab dish of grilled minced meat served in a pita with onions, sour cream, kajmak, ajvar, cottage cheese, and red pepper. It’s a delicious mess. The best place to try it? Cevabdzinica Zeljo in Sarajevo.
If you’re not so much into cevapi, you can order a plate of mixed meat just about everywhere and for cheap.
It’s perfect for adventure travelers
If you’re into rafting, taking a trip down Neretva River is a pretty exhilarating experience. The river Una is considered one of the best for rafting as well.
There are also several mountain treks for the avid hikers. Bjelašnica has the highest summit at 2067 metres. Other memorable hikes include Rakitnica canyon, the route from Lukomir to Umoliani, and Lokvanjsko lake. It’s very important to stay on the trail, however, and stick to designated hiking routes. There are still land mines scattered deep in the heart of the country, but the common routes will keep you safe.
And, of course, if you’re a winter sports kinda person, definitely check out Ski Resort Babin Do. There are also a handful of abandoned Olympic sites nearby.
Its history is impossible to comprehend
I’ve watched a six-hour documentary, read a handful of books, and even visited Srebrenica – the site of the largest genocide since WWII. But I’m not any closer to understanding the Yugoslavian War and its profound impact on Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Naturally, the country wants to move on. But it’s important you take the time to learn a little about what happened here.
Some people still believe that Bosnia and Herzegovina is an unstable, dangerous territory. Several people with good intentions warned me before I visited. This simply isn’t the truth, and you’d be doing yourself a disservice by passing over it.
On my recent visit some areas of Bosnia and Herzegovina were suffering due to flooding. Visitors to the country were a slow trickle, despite most of the touristy areas being unaffected by the heavy rainfall. Bosnia and Herzegovina needs the tourism industry, and your visit will boast the economy and help this country grow. Get out there!
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