The Cornish fishing village of St Mawes, at the mouth of the Percuil River, has epic views that stretch languidly to Falmouth Bay. They say it's named after Maudez, a Celtic saint who spent years in solitary contemplation looking out at the calming waters. Anyone who has queued in the Co-op in July might find the idea of quiet meditation laughable. St Mawes is buzzing right now, thanks to the relaunch of two hotels: The Idle Rocks and her funkier sibling The St Mawes Hotel. The owners, Aston Martin chairman David Richards and his wife Karen, are attracting a party crowd who catch the sleeper from Paddington or fly in by chopper for long weekends at this laid-back hotspot.
Back in the 1970s, the harbour was so crowded you had to step across boats to make it to shore, and those times may be returning. Olga Polizzi put St Mawes back on the map in 1998 when she opened Tresanton, turning the former sailing club into a sleek hotel that made going on a beach holiday in England smart again. Then last year, The Idle Rocks was revived. The general consensus is that competition has been good for the village, despite soaring property prices. It is now so affluent that Hasbro has launched a limited-edition St Mawes Monopoly, with St Mawes Castle and Tresanton representing Bond Street and Mayfair.
The rows of pastel and whitewashed cottages, the castle and the imposing lighthouse that stands guard on St Anthony Head all contribute to the fairytale feel. And the sailing is magical, too. 'If you go to Salcombe in Devon, all you have is the enclosed harbour or the English Channel. Here you have the sheltered bay and the Carrick Roads [a large natural harbour],' said a pro at the St Mawes Sailing Club, where weekly races and regular regattas culminate in August's Falmouth Week. It's no coincidence that the River Fal is where Sir Ben Ainslie honed his skills.
The St Mawes Ferry, which goes to and from Falmouth, shares the water with grand yachts, dinghies, shabby fishing boats and rowers in their pilot gigs. Children spend blissful hours rockpooling on the two small beaches. And there's plenty more to do: browsing the boutiques, lounging on nearby Carne beach, going for coastal walks or investigating the many fantastical gardens nearby. Or you could take a leaf out of St Maudez's book and quietly contemplate the view; but unlike him, why not do so on a hotel terrace with an invigorating cocktail or a glass of crisp Sauvignon Blanc?
WHERE TO STAY
The vibe at The Idle Rocks is cool but friendly. The ground floor is one large, open space, and the terrace is the place to be in the summer (but not last February, when the whole floor got taken out by the storms). The hotel has risen from the ashes and been carefully refurbished once again - luckily, the fire brigade saved the extensive modern-art collection. The 20 bedrooms are vibrant and contemporary. It's worth paying for a grand sea-view room: number 15 is so close to the water you can indulge private-yacht fantasies while you lie in the free-standing bath. Little details count: sailor's hats in the kids' playroom, and gorgeous flower arrangements that blend in with the objets d'art and furniture sourced from Paris. The breakfast is scrumptious: try pancakes with bacon and berries; dinner is pricey. Sister property The St Mawes Hotel, which has just reopened across the harbour, has a Soho House-type feel and serves tapas and pizzas. The owners, who've had a house here for years, realised that prices at The Idle Rocks were on the steep side for locals. At The St Mawes, food and rooms are cheaper and the style is shabby-chic. There are plans for a cinema room and a spa. +44 1326 270270; www.idlerocks.com. Doubles from £150; sea view from £250. +44 1326 270170; www.stmaweshotel.com. Doubles from £140
Olga Polizzi's Hotel Tresanton is still the grande dame. It may not be hip, but it's certainly beautiful. Fossil sculptures, maps, local art and objects with a nautical theme connect the rooms with their surroundings. Images of lighthouses are dotted around the bar and peek out from menus, towels and coasters. The terrace is understated, a place to sit in the sun for hours and watch life sail by, with the friendly babble of fellow guests floating in the warm air. The food is indisputably the best in St Mawes. Order a Twitter in the bar - a refreshing vodka-and-Champagne cocktail with a cucumber twist that slips down all too easily. Then sample the fresh Porthilly oysters, followed by seafood linguine or a crab romaine salad. Under long-serving manager Federica Bertolini, the service is flawless. There may now be a couple of rivals in town, but the original is majestic in her quiet confidence. +44 1326 270055;www.tresanton.com. Doubles from £200
Dreamcatchers is a slick modern house set 200 yards above the waterside, with an unbeatable view. Owner Amanda Selby has had fun with colour - bright floral curtains and pink and blue zigzag headboards. She can organise a masseuse and private chef if you wish: therapist Sarah Greenhalgh will massage away the stiffest neck; and the talented Georgie Stevens, who trained under Rick Stein, will rustle up a three-course dinner (her scallops with celeriac purée, candied bacon and truffle oil are sensational).
The beauty of this place is that it has everything. The kitchen, pimped-up with two ovens and two fridge-freezers, is stocked with all the kit an accomplished cook could possibly need. The beds are large and plump, made up with Egyptian cotton linens, and there are games and fancy-dress costumes for the inevitable rainy days. You won't want to leave.
Moonrakers is the bling in Selby's crown. This five-bedroom diva, with its glorious sweeping garden, is the place for a multi-family holiday. Tucked away in a secluded part of the village, it's a short stroll from the castle. There's room to sprawl, whether on the terrace, the lawn, one of the wide sofas in either of the sitting rooms or a sun-lounger on the balcony. The style is eclectic: modern furniture is mixed with a mahogany dining table, a grandfather clock and a giant glass amphora. Colourful cushions and daring fabrics give it a modern look. This pad is all about kicking back and enjoying the astonishing sea view, not that the kids will notice - they'll be too busy bouncing on the giant trampoline or getting competitive around the ping-pong table in the garden. Order the breakfast box, stuffed with goodies from a nearby farm, to start your holiday with a banger.+44 8000 886622; www.stmawesretreats.co.uk. Dreamcatchers sleeps eight, from £1,100; Moonrakers sleeps 12, from £1,395 - both prices are for a three-night weekend stay
Interior-design fans will love Vara, a waterfront holiday house with a Victorian façade and fresh new interiors decorated in Scandinavian style. With its white, oiled-oak floors and understated, bespoke furniture, it has a calm, grown-up look. Design classics such as the Teddy Bear chair will make collectors envious. Work by local artists Myles Oxenford, Ferris McGuinty and Gareth Edwards sparkle in these surroundings. A pair of range-finding binoculars that date from World War I stand in the window, pointing towards the Carrick Roads. Leave the kids at home and revel in the quiet sophistication. varastmawes@gmail.com. Sleeps eight, from £1,200 for a weekend
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