On a remote island 12 km off the coast of Ireland you will find an extraordinary site known as Skellig Michael. This 6th century Monastery stands high on the rocky outcrop of the largest of two Skellig Islands. Getting to the Skelligs is half the fun as the ride out by small boat faces rough seas. More often than not, trips are cancelled due to weather. Sometimes if you do manage to get to the island, the surging seas halt any chance of making a landing. Very few make the journey to see Skellig Michael and even fewer manage to make a landing on the island.
We were lucky enough to have blue skies on the day of our landing at Skellig Michael. Apparently we were quite lucky as a group of women from the United States told us that they’d been waiting for three days to land on the island. It was a thrilling experience to step off the boat in the choppy waters and climb up the narrow steps to the start of the path leading us 200 metres (600 feet) above sea level.
Each year the Irish government grants 13 boat licenses to tour operators who run trips to the island from the mainland. We left from the Skellig Experience Visitors Centre near Portmagee which was an excellent starting point. It was here that we watched a film about the island and browsed the museum’s artifacts and models of the Skellig Islands.
When landing on the island, there are signs warning people to climb at their own risk, but if you take your time and watch your step, you will have no problem reaching the top to explore the fascinating ruins.
After about a half an hour of climbing, we made it to the top to view the beehive stone cells that have survived elements and viking invasions through the centuries. The monks lived off of rain water, sea birds and the odd sea lion for food, but life was difficult on the island. The man made stone path leading up to the settlement took centuries to build and their skilled craftsmanship paid off as it remains in extraordinary condition.
Skellig Michael is a designated World Heritage Site so much of it has been left as it was. It is extraordinary to see just how well the cells held up to the wild weather of the Atlantic Coast. While walking through the grounds and taking in the views, one can understand why the Christian Monks chose this spot as their place of refuge. The isolation from the mainland and sheer beauty of the landscape makes you feel that you are just a little bit closer to heaven
Tips: A great place to stay when visiting the Skelligs is The Moorings in Portmagee. Owner Gerard is welcoming and friendly. He stopped to say hello and check in on everyone at dinner. He and his wife Patricia own the hotel, but also the restaurant and adjoining pub, as well as a gift shop. There’s local traditional music in the Bridge Bar and in the summertime across the street, they have storytelling about the history of this fishing village and the Skellig Islands.
The Moorings can set up the Skelligs for you, they’re located just a few minutes from the Skellig Centre and they offer plenty of advice on what to see and do in the are.
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