Mexico is an extremely varied country with great food, unique archaeology, excellent beaches, world-class diving and landscapes ranging from dense jungles to snow-capped mountains to (yes…) deserts with cactuses.
It’s bigger than all of Central America combined, and about equal in size to all of mainland Southeast Asia. Despite spending much time in Mexico, I too was able to bite off only a part of it. Due to its sheer size, the temptation for many travellers will be to focus only on the most popular south-eastern regions, though if you have the time I recommend hitting up other parts of Mexico as well. The Copper Canyon national park in the north is especially not to be missed.
Mexico is a bit more developed (and as a result a little more expensive) than many popular Central or South American backpacker destinations, but it is nevertheless still an inexpensive and attractive country for the low-budget traveller.
A church in San Cristobal de Las Casas
Where to go
While I've been to a great number of places in Mexico (by backpacking as well as road tripping along much of the Pacific coast), I still feel like I have only scratched the surface. However, based on my experiences there are two regions I can highly recommend:
Yucatan and Oaxaca: the main backpacker trail
The established backpacker trail runs through the regions south of Mexico City and through the Yucatan peninsula. Most backpackers will start their journey in either Mexico City or Cancun, as their airports are the well-most connected internationally.
While of course not everyone travels exactly the same way, you'll find a lot of backpackers hitting up the same places. Towns that are firmly on the backpacker circuit include Oaxaca, San Christobal de las Casas, Puerto Escondido, Palenque, Merida and Tulum (amongst others).
In the Yucatan peninsula places like Cancun and Playa Del Carmen can only be described as over-the-top party / spring break getaways, so you'll meet a different crowd there, though these places also still see their fair share of independent travellers. Backpackers might be inclined go to nearby Cozumel or Holbox islands, or spend time in the more rustic Tulum.
Hit up these places and you can be assured that can find plenty of backpacker hostels and lots of sights and activities. And yes, these areas are safe (as are most other places in Mexico for that matter, though these regions are particularly known to be safe for tourists).
Those on a bigger regional trip (perhaps following the ‘Gringo Trail’ through Central America) will typically make their way to Belize and northern Guatemala from the Yucatan region, or to southern Guatemala from San Cristobal.
Northern route: Copper Canyon and Baja California
This part of Mexico is less well-travelled but can be extremely rewarding.
Start in Mexico City and make your way up to Mexico’s second city Guadelajara – a great place to stroll around markets and plazas or to visit museums. You can then make a trip to Puerto Vallerta, a somewhat upscale beach destination. Mazatlanhas a big hotel development on one end of its bay but a pleasant town and expat haven on the other. It has a ferry connection to Baja California (La Paz) where you will find many ideal spots for diving, surfing and swimming with whale sharks.
The true highlight of this route is the train from Los Mochis through the Copper Canyon – a jaw-dropping system of canyons that is by some measures bigger than the Grand Canyon in the US. You can spend some time hiking in the area, possibly using the town of Creel as your base. From Chihuahua, you can backtrack back to Mexico City (I flew back and then resumed travelling south from the capital).
If you start your journey in the US, it seems you could take this route north to south, then continue onto the main Mexico/Gringo trail. Keep in mind however that cities north of Chihuahua (e.g. Tijuana and Cuidad Juarez) are known for drugs related violence and are reportedly not very safe. You may find that Chihuahua City is already a little rough around the edges—I was personally slightly less comfortable there than elsewhere (and stayed only for one night). I've heard the city is improving, though obviously do your own research.
It should be said this route is doesn't see nearly as many travellers as the south-east. While there's a lot of great hostels in Guadelajara, things begin to thin out in Mazatlan (in 2013, there was only one hostel there). It may be a bit more adventurous, but if you don't mind straying from the well-trodden path this part of Mexico is very much worth seeing.
Things To Do In Mexico
With such a big country it’s difficult to offer a complete list of highlights. Even the Lonely Planet starts with an unusually long list of 40 (!) ‘top things to do’. Here are just a few sights and places that I personally enjoyed most:
Ride the Pacific Railway through the Copper Canyon
Wowza! The Copper Canyon (Barrancas del Cobre) will blow you away with its scale, especially when you stand on one of the vertigo-inducing cliffs.
The Copper Canyon viewed from Divisadero
The canyon can be seen from the comfort of the Chihuahua al Pacifico Railway line, which runs for 12 hours all the way through the canyon region. The views are at times stunning. You can get off at Divisadero and after a brief walk get an expansive vista.
The canyon is so big that at its bottom the climate can be almost tropical (as opposed to the desert climate at the top). Take a bus to Urique or Batopilas to get down into the lower areas.
Hike or mountainbike the valleys around Creel
The town of Creel, in the middle of the Copper Canyon region, is a good base for hikes in the area – don’t miss the Mesa to the immediate east of town which has lots of beautiful rock formations and various other sights (a great way to explore this area is by renting a mountain bike).
The Valley of the Monks near Creel
Experience the bustle of Mexico City
With 12 million inhabitants, Mexico City is a bit of a beast. Some of the outer neighborhoods may not be that safe or worthwhile for a tourist, but broadly speaking it's a fascinating city with strong contrasts: parts of the center feel like a European capital, while other parts feel like a developing country.
In the main area around Zócalo main plaza, visit some of the countless museums, churches and historical buildings. A few blocks from the main plaza is La Lagunilla, an absolutely massive street market that's well worth a stroll (beware of pickpockets).
Many daytrips and tours depart from Mexico City including seeing Lucha Libre shows, trips to the town of Tequila (birthplace of… you guessed it) and the ruins of Teotihuacan.
Enjoy the incredible food
Mexico is a food paradise. (And doubly so if, like me, you are not from a part of the world where there's already a lot of authentic Mexican food around, e.g. places like California.) You can get different kinds of tacos from street vendors for next to nothing, and they're almost guaranteed to be delicious. Be sure to try the tamales. And Chilaquiles. Or try the tropical fruits with chili powder on top (an odd but tasty combination). For breakfast, have some huevos rancheros. The list goes on! If you are in Oaxaca state, you must try the legendary "mole".
Smell the fresh mountain air in San Cristobal
San Cristobal de Las Casas is a charming mountain town with lovely churches, markets and squares. The air here is a lot cooler, so bring a sweater! In nearby Mayan villages in the surrounding mountains you can observe some traditional cultures. There's also the Sumidero river canyon that you can take a boat down, which makes for a decent day-trip.
Go to the nearby indiginous village of San Juan Chamula. You will find a church there where catholic and pagan rituals have been mixed in unusual ways; you may be lucky and see a live chicken getting ritually sacrificed at an altar in what is ostensibly still a catholic church. (This is not for the squeamish perhaps, but I thought this was absolutely fascinating.)
The Cañón del Sumidero near San Cristobal (photo credit: gripso_banana_prune cc)
Visit (or dive) the cenotes in the Yucatan
The Yucatan peninsula is home to countless so-called cenotes, which are underground sinkholes, caverns and caves that stretch for countless of miles. Many cenotes have been made easily accessible for swimming or snorkelling.
If you are a scuba diver you can even dive some of the cenotes. Dos Ojos near Tulum is a fantastic cavern that you can dive through with only Open Water certification required. You will see beautiful sunbeams crossing past stalagmites from openings in the cavern roof. Angelita is another fascinating cenote: it has a mystical layer of hydrogen sulfate that looks like a foggy cloud with logs and branches passing through it—all very much like you are on the set of a sci-fi movie.
Sleep in jungle huts near the Mayan ruins of Palenque
The best Mayan ruins can in my opinion be found in Palenque, where the buildings are tucked in between jungle-covered hills with also a waterfall nearby. Stay in one of the jungle huts in El Panchan (near the park entrance) to wake up in the morning to the sound of howler monkeys. Don Muchos in El Panchan is the main place for entertainment including late-night salsa dancing.
Other
- Mazatlan for surfing, beaches and a cute town center. Climb up to the lighthouse for some cool views.
- Oaxaca is a cute town with markets, museums and squares. Known for its excellent food. Make sure you try the "mole".
- Guadelajara is the second largest city and a mellower alternative to Mexico City
- Day of the Dead festival is not to be missed if you are in Mexico at the start of November. (See also: Tequila-Fueled Street Parades On Day of the Dead.)
- Tulum is a nice beach destination that is not too touristy.
Don't miss Day of the Dead if you're in Mexico in early November
Lowlights
Chichen Itza (visit other ruins instead)
You also don’t need to go to the temples of Chichen Itza. Really. It is famous primarily due to its close proximity to tourist haven Cancun, not necesserily because they are the best ruins to visit. And while it's claimed to be "one of the new 7 wonders of the world", that was a list composed by a marketing company. You might enjoy it more than I did, but I felt that the huge crowds and huge number of souvenir stalls prevented Chichen Itza from maintaining any sense of mystery or authenticity.
If you want to see big imposing temples, it might be better to go to the Aztec ruins of Teotihuacan near Mexico City (take the subway to the northern bus terminal, then pay about 50 pesos for a 45 min bus to Teotihuacan). The Mayan ruins of Palenqueare surrounded by jungle that are much more appealing than Chichen Itza. Better yet, visit Tikal in Guatemala for ruins that are beautiful, interesting, and grand in scale (and the most impressive of all in Central America). Read More: 5 Must-See Mayan Ruins
Teotihuacan near Mexico City
Cancun (and surrounding area)
This is not a surprise, but there's nothing but package tourists and spring breakers in Cancun, which may not the vibe you are after. I spoke to some Americans in Cancun whose minds were blown a thousand times when I told them I'd be venturing anywhere outside of the Cancun area in Mexico. They seemed to think I had a few screws loose and reacted as though these were going to be my last days on Earth. If only they knew what great things lay beyond the walls of their resort! Anyway, Cancun is mainly a destination for mass tourism, which is just something to keep in mind.
Playa del Carmen is a bit of a mini-Cancun: it can be admittedly good fun for some partying, but it's also pretty touristy and hollow. It's the kind of place where banana boats are constantly zipping past the beach. If it's not your thing, just make your way to more chilled out places nearby (where you can still party or relax on a beach if you want, just in a less commercial environment... personally I enjoyed Playa Del Carmen for what it is, but preferred staying in places like Tulum).
Practical information
To be honest, there are very few practical issues to consider when visiting Mexico. A visa is easily acquired on arrival for most visitors and lasts 90 days. Travel is generally without any notable difficulties. I can think of only two things to point out:
ATMs
ATMs can sometimes be a bit temperamental. Myself and fellow travellers have had a lot of issues using European bank cards with Mexican bank chains like Banorte and Bancomer; however, international bank ATMs like HSBC and Scotia Bank (of which there are plenty) usually work without a hitch.
Safety
Some worry about safety a lot, particularly misinformed Americans, but this is notOnce Upon a Time in Mexico. Most regions visited by travellers are perfectly fine, and even the bad regions are mostly OK for visitors.
What throws off many people in assessing safety in Mexico are reports of drug gang related violence. Keep in mind this takes place mostly in the criminal underworld and has little to do with tourists. Have a look at travel advisories, but don’t crap yourself; while street crime does occur, safety in Mexico is generally not a huge issue so long as you follow standard precautions. See also: 6 Safety Tips For Central Americaand How To Keep Travel Safety Information In Perspective.
There are some regions you might wish to avoid however. Areas with high levels of violent crime reportedly include the northern borders with the US (especially Ciudad Juarez - though this may be improving lately), the city of Acapulco, and a handful of other places; travellers are usually advised to avoid them if possible.
A very in-depth state-by-state take on the topic of safety in Mexico comes from the blog Indiana Jo: Is Mexico Safe? From someone who’s been. The tl;dr version is that it's mostly just fine!
Go to Northern Mexico for the 'spaghetti Western' version of the country
Cost of travel
- A budget private room will typically cost 300 pesos ($23) though you'll sometimes find them for 200 ($15).
- Hostel dorm beds will typically cost around 120 - 180 (or $9 to $15 - more expensive in cities and near Cancun). Lowest I had was around $5 in San Christobal.
- 40 - 50 pesos (around $4) for a solid breakfast or lunch
- 6 - 12 pesos for a taco ($0.50 - $1.00), with prices depending on where you are. 3 or 4 tacos can fill you up.
- Rule of thumb for bus travel is $5 for every hour travelled
Mexico is not the cheapest country around, but you can survive pretty easily especially when it comes to food. Mexico is a paradise for cheap eats and street food, and there are numerous OXXO and 7/11 convenience stores for inexpensive snacks.
Language issues
English is not widely spoken in Mexico, though basic English is reasonably common in bigger cities, and in the most touristy regions such as the Yucatan. Learning some phrases in Spanish is nevertheless a good idea. If travelling Mexico and/or Central America for a while, it may pay off to dig in and learn some Spanish. Check out my post 5 Ways To Learn Spanish When Traveling Latin America.
More info on Mexico
On my destination pages I try to mix general information with a bit of personal flavor. Hope you find it useful!
There are a couple of resources I use myself when researching a destination. The first I want to mention is WikiVoyage, a free collaborative wikipedia-style travel guide. Since it's collaboratively written it lacks the personal touch (and the information on specific accommodation can often be outdated compared to other sources), but the site is absolutely perfect for high-level research. You can find the WikiVoyage page for Mexico here.
Another little-known website that has a lot of useful information isTravelIndependent.info. It is specifically geared towards budget/backpacker style travel and has some great destination info.
Finally, for general travel advice that you can use in Mexico or anywhere, check out my book Travel the World Without Worries. It deals with such topics as how to plan a trip, how to "wing it with a plan", how to budget your trip and reduce your expenses, dealing with language, safety or health related issues, how to pack the smart way, how to make your experience more unique and adventurous, and much much more. I've poured two years of continuous travel experience into trying to write a comprehensive guide, so be sure to have a look as it may save you lots of time, money and effort! I do also use *gasp* guidebooks! I have used Rough Guides occasionally (and I like them) but my favorite guidebook publisher is still Lonely Planet. People will sometimes refer to the Lonely Planet as "The Book" or "The Bible", and it's easy to joke about newbie travellers who clutch their Lonely Planet a bit too tightly. Nevertheless I find these guides to be indispensible sources of information; their maps and itineraries in particular are some of the best around. As long as you use them as aguide and not as a rule they can help you save a lot of time in figuring out a rough main thread for your journey from which you can improvise the rest. You can check out theMexico Lonely Planet here. These days they're made available digitally as well (whole or by specific chapter).
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