Outside its lively capital, the Indian Ocean island of Madagascar feels gloriously uncrowded, but with its otherworldly wildlife, spectacular beaches and fascinating culture, it is packed full of wonders. By Peter Browne.
I crossed the Mandrare River to the sacred forest in a dug-out canoe pushed by two guides, like some colonial grandee reluctant to get his feet wet. Children waved from the riverbank, laughing. Women crossed in the opposite direction, ragged skirts hitched high, balancing buckets of water.
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