The love for Guatemala seems nearly unanimous amongst backpackers in Central America. Ask anyone who's followed the Central American 'gringo trail' which country was their favorite and, I kid you not, 9 times out of 10 their answer will be Guatemala. Although I knew little to nothing about the country before I visited, it ended up being my favorite country too.
It's true that it is known for having fairly high levels of crime, so you may need to be a little more cautious than usual. On the other hand, the sensible traveller is unlikely to experience any problems (more on this further down). Not going to Guatamala means missing out on the best part of Central America.
Guatemala is a vibrant, colourful land, filled with beautiful colonial architecture, ancient Mayan cities, spectacular rainforest scenery and stunning lakes—and very friendly people too. While Mexico and Costa Rica are the more popular destinations in the region (both attracting more mainstream tourism), Guatemala is the country that adventure travellers rave the most about.
Why you should go
- Astounding natural beauty. Guatemala has it all: giant lakes, lava-oozing volcanos, dense jungles, fertile green valleys, and huge mountains all begging to be explored. As soon as I made it into Guatemala from neighboring Honduras the change was immediate and dramatic: this is a country where you will often want to stop to admire the view.
- Traditional ways of life. It's common to see locals wear traditional clothes, and the colorful 'Chicken Buses' (converted and repainted US school buses) are like a national symbol. Some places can be pretty chaotic (markets especially) which adds to the charm.
- A place for outdoor adventurers. Whether it's going on jungle treks in the north, hiking volcanoes in the south, or caving, swimming or tubing around the azure waterfalls of Semuc Champey, Guatemala is the perfect destination for the active traveller.
- Home to the most impressive Mayan archeological site. The epic ruins of Tikal are almost worth coming to Guatemala for alone. It's a huge Mayan site in the middle of the jungle that, unlike more heavily exploited archeological sites elsewhere, manages to retain its mystique.
- Inexpensive. Guatemala is a very affordable and backpacker-friendly destination. Along with Nicaragua, it's the cheapest you will find in the region.
Traditional clothing at a fiesta in San Miguel Chicaj
Orientation
The map below shows some of the main destinations in Guatemala (though there are quite a few others, of course).
Many of Guetamala's main destinations are crammed together just west of the capital. It's actually impossible to easily fit them all on an overview map! The colonial town of Antigua is a huge tourist draw. Further west is Lake Atitlan, which has several towns around its edges that are visited by many backpackers (including the towns of Panajachel and San Pedro). Further west still is the city of Quetzaltenango, which is also known by the name of Xela. It is primarily a great base from which to go hiking or volcano climbing. The whole Guatemalan highlands area is filled with impressive volcanoes.
The pacific side of Guatemala is much less visited and you'll find fewer people heading into Livingston or El Estor, so consider these more off-the-beaten-track locations. The town of Copan, just over the border into Honduras, it a popular eastward waypoint into the rest of Central America, and sees some day trippers from Guatemala as well. I should say the Mayan ruins of Copan get absolutely crushed by the sheer grandure of Tikal; they are in no way comparable.
In the north you'll mainly find the lake town of Flores and the nearby Mayan ruins of Tikal. Those on a regional trip come to Flores by bus from Mexico or Belize. (There are also speedboat connections from Belize into a port near Livingston.)
Don't miss Semuc Champey in the middle of Guatemala. You can read more about this wonderful place further below!
Tips for visiting Tikal
Tikal is easily the most breathtaking Mayan archeological site in Central America. While Chichen Itza in Mexico is more famous internationally (and more heavily marketed due to its close proximity to Mexico's beach tourism capital of Cancun), the more remote Tikal seems much more deserving of 'world wonder' platitudes.
The site comprises of five main temples with many more ruins around it still enveloped by jungle. Having a good guide can make all the difference as you will be able to fully appreciate the history and significance of the place. If you do choose to explore independently make sure you don't miss Temple IV. The view from the top of this tallest temple is fantastic. Film buffs will want to know this very view was also featured in the original Star Wars trilogy.
Go in the early morning. This really pays off as the site is best experienced without the masses. Daytrippers arrive by plane from Antigua starting around noon, so you have until then to explore the park in relative quiet. Some people try to get to the park for sunrise; tickets for this cost extra and have limited availability, though you should know that the jungles are usually very misty this early which means sunrise can be disappointing.
Decide if you want to sleep in the national park. Accommodation in the park is much more expensive, but you get a chance to wake up in the jungle to the sound of howler monkeys and tropical birds (I did this at the Palenque ruins in Mexico and loved it). If you are on a budget, the nearby town of Flores is wonderfully situated on an island in the middle of a lake about a 45-60 minute ride from the park. It's home to cheap hostels, so many backpackers stay here and get an early shuttle bus to the park.
Things to do in Guatemala
Stay on the island village of Flores
Flores is a tiny village on an island in a lake in the very north of Guatemala. Besides being a perfect base from which to visit the ruins of Tikal or for onwards travel to Mexico or Belize, it's also a great place in its own right. You can relax, canoe around the island, or visit the colourful markets in adjoining Santa Elena. I highly recommend staying in hostel Los Amigos, which is still one of my top favorite ever hostels for atmosphere.
Ride a chicken bus
So-called chicken buses are former US school buses used in Guatemala for local transportation. They are often painted in bright colours, and on occasion you may even find that the driver has installed an elaborate sound system blasting non-stop raggaeton (one time my bus even had disco lights!). While slow and at times uncomfortable, you can get a real taste of Guatamalan culture by taking a chicken bus instead of a tourist shuttle van.
(Note: inner city chicken buses in Guatemala City are not known to be very safe and should be avoided. I've heard the same goes for chicken buses in remote mountain areas. Just stating this here, though do your own up-to-date research prior to your trip.)
photo credit: To Uncertainty And Beyond cc
See the gorgeous volcano lake of Atitlan
Lake Atitlan is a beautiful lake in the Western Highlands of Guatemala that is ringed by several volcanoes. You can hop by shuttle boat between the villages surrounding the lake, many of which are backpacker favourites.
The lakeside town of Panajachel is the most easily reached from Antigua and elsewhere, but it's very touristy when in season (and offputtingly so for me personally). You will almost trip over all the souvenir stands here, but it does have the most direct view of the volcanoes.
San Pedro is the main backpacker hangout, and it's a wonderful laidback place where you can relax, party or (like so many) cheaply learn Spanish in one of the many schools. I loved this place, and many travellers end up staying here longer than anticipated! Nearby San Marcos is a small and charming alternative/hippie hamlet, also directly on the lake.
Lake Atitlan
Stroll the markets of Chichicastenango
Chichicastenango is famed for having the largest market in Central America. I unfortunately had to miss this during my stay in Guatemala, but many people told me it was one of their highlights. I want to point you to this amazing photo report posted on fellow travel blog Lunaguava.
Chichicastenango market — Photo credit: Lunaguava
Hike to the highest point of Central America
Xela (also known as Quetzaltenango) is a popular base for hiking. Many make the multi-day hike from Xela to San Pedro at Lake Atitlan, which takes you through glowing hills and green forests. Other popular hikes from Xela go up to the many nearby volcanos. If you have the stamina, be sure to hike up Tajamulco volcano (the highest point in Central America) and get there for a stunning sunset above the clouds.
Clouds rolling down the lower ridges of Tajamulco at sunrise
See the colonial town of Antigua
Antigua is like the pretty ballerina of colonial towns, with charming and colourful lowrise buildings and direct views of two nearby volcanos. The view from beneath one of its archways is postcard-famous.
If I'm honest, I do have to say that Antigua gave me the biggest spike of initial excitement but also the biggest subsequent drop. At first I was gobsmacked by its prettiness—I mean, there's volcanoes in the background from multiple vantage points throughout the city, and the houses are so colourful—but then you quickly start to wonder what else there is to do. Antigua at times struck me as a bit fake, and Lonely Planet describes it as 'a Guatemalan town as if designed by IKEA', in this case referring to the way certain buildings have been renovated for tourists. Personally, I was content spending just a day or two here, and prefered spending more time around lake Atitlan.
Get a slice of paradise at Semuc Champey
If I give you a purely factual description of Semuc Champey—that it's a cascading series of beautiful azure pools in the jungle—you probably think might be pretty cool. But it's hard to explain why it's not just pretty cool, but actually the best damn thingyou can see in Guatemala. Certainly to my mind (and all of my travel companions) it was more amazing than Lake Atitlan, Antigua or yes, even Tikal. But it's also one of those 'you had to be there' things.
Whatever you do, make sure you don't miss Semuc Champey. The pools are actually just one part of a full-day adventure experience. It's essential that you go on a tour as they will show you cool secret areas, a look-out point above, and will take you into nearby caves (which you'll enter with nothing but a wax candle for light, which is totally awesome). While I also don't want to hype this up too much, if you are an adventurous sort of person you are going to have an incredible day.
But look elsewhere for beaches
Unlike some of its neighbors Guatemala does not have any noteworthy beaches. That's not hugely to its detriment, but just something to know. The pacific coast of Guatemala is hard to reach, has dark volcanic sand, and swimming here is perilous due to strong tides and undertow. The Carribean coastline in turn is fairly unremarkable and also very short. Those looking for quality beach time should take a closer look at Mexico, Belize, Nicaragua or Costa Rica.
Guatemala safety issues
As you research a trip to Guatemala you will inevitably start to wonder if it's safe for travel. I do want to reassure you, though of course all I can give you is my personal opinion and experiences as a guy who spent 6 weeks in Guatemala.
Clearly not all is peachy in Guatemala and crime is a problem. On the other hand, it's also mostly just fine for a traveller so long as you are sensible, exercise reasonable caution and avoid the capital if you can. I personally experienced no problems whatsoever and neither did almost every other traveller I spoke with. That said, I did hear two first-hand stories of theft and one of robbery (albeit a drunken and avoidable situation), so make of that what you will.
For a less subjective indicator: according to UN statistics, Guatemala sits somewhere between the extreme crime levels of Honduras and El Salvador and the relative high safety of Nicaragua and Costa Rica.
Make sure you know the best practices for staying safe and keeping your belongings secure. Avoid Guatemala City: it's okay for a layover to get your next bus, but it's a big and sketchy city and no one really stays for very long there. Antigua sees the most tourists and it's here that opportunistic crime seems rife, so even though it's a pretty-looking town you shouldn't completely drop your guard here.
That said I also know from my own experience that it's easy to get needlessly worked up about the topic of safety while you're just googling for information. Some suggested reading: Travel Safety: How To Keep Things In Perspective as well as 6 Safety Tips For Central America
Cost of travel in Guatemala
Guatemala can be very inexpensive, and for backpacking in Guatemala you shouldbudget around $25-$30 a day.
Hostel dorm beds cost $6 to $12 depending on where you are. You can find cheap rooms with shared bathroom from $8 to $16.
Street stalls or meal-of-the-day type places sell you a full plate of food for $2-$4. For a more proper restaurant with a la carte ordering expect $4-$10 minimum (and upwards of course).
Shared shuttles between the major points in the south are never more than $10-$15. Chicken buses often cost as little as a dollar.
More info on Guatemala
On my destination pages I try to mix general information with a bit of personal flavor. Hope you find it useful!
There are a couple of resources I use myself when researching a destination. The first I want to mention is WikiVoyage, a free collaborative wikipedia-style travel guide. Since it's collaboratively written it lacks the personal touch (and the information on specific accommodation can often be outdated compared to other sources), but the site is absolutely perfect for high-level research. You can find the WikiVoyage page for Guatemala here.
Another little-known website that has a lot of useful information isTravelIndependent.info. It is specifically geared towards budget/backpacker style travel and has some great destination info.
Finally, for general travel advice that you can use in Guatemala or anywhere, check out my book Travel the World Without Worries. It deals with such topics as how to plan a trip, how to "wing it with a plan", how to budget your trip and reduce your expenses, dealing with language, safety or health related issues, how to pack the smart way, how to make your experience more unique and adventurous, and much much more. I've poured two years of continuous travel experience into trying to write a comprehensive guide, so be sure to have a look as it may save you lots of time, money and effort! I do also use *gasp* guidebooks! I have used Rough Guides occasionally (and I like them) but my favorite guidebook publisher is still Lonely Planet. People will sometimes refer to the Lonely Planet as "The Book" or "The Bible", and it's easy to joke about newbie travellers who clutch their Lonely Planet a bit too tightly. Nevertheless I find these guides to be indispensible sources of information; their maps and itineraries in particular are some of the best around. As long as you use them as aguide and not as a rule they can help you save a lot of time in figuring out a rough main thread for your journey from which you can improvise the rest. You can check out theGuatemala Lonely Planet here. These days they're made available digitally as well (whole or by specific chapter).
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