Monday 5 October 2015

Exploring Germany’s Northern Coastlines


The northern coasts of Germany are awash with rustic stoney beaches and seaside villages. Split by the state of Schleswig-Hollstein, that juts out into Denmark, northern Germany has two major seas, the Baltic in the east and the Nordsee in the west. From the 13th Century onward a maritime trade confederation known as the Hanseatic League dominated the area for around 500 years. Many of the towns and cities in region owe their unique architectural, linguistic, and cultural heritage to a rich seafaring, mercantile past. With regular and affordable flights between London and Berlin Germany’s Northern Coastlines are easily explored by bus from the capital. Here are six highlights.

Stralsund

Stralsund
Stralsund Old Town
Stralsund is 3hrs north of Berlin by bus and sits on the breezy baltic coast. As a powerful member of the Hanseatic League Stralsund is a proud sea-side city with an extraordinary historical and architectural identity. After being burnt to the ground in 1249 by besieging Lübeck forces Stralsund built a massive town wall with 11 gates and 30 watch towers to enclose its UNESCO World Heritage Old Town center. There are over 800 listed buildings of Renaissance, Baroque and Jugendstil movements with faithful restorations and an incredible diversity. Stralsund is particularly famous for its Hanseatic black-ribbed tropes in Brick Gothic style, and the 13th Century Town Hall or the towering Marienkirche abby are fabulous examples.

Rügen

Königsstuhl Rügen, image by Thomas Wolf, www.foto-tw.de
Königsstuhl Rügen, 
Only 1 hour from Stralsund across Germany’s largest bridge the temperate island of Rügen is a 51km stretch of white cliffs, soft hills, national parks, and beech-tree forests. There are several small towns and romantic villages, with elegant 19th Century villas and long sandy beaches. The coast is adorned with historic hotels and hidden in the woods are the colossal concrete tenements of a Nazi Youth resort that was never completed. The Jasmund National Park is UNESCO World Heritage listed and on top of the precipitous Königsstuh cliffs a Swedish king once commanded his navies.

Rostock

Rostock
Rostock
2.5hrs by bus from Berlin, Rostock is the largest city in Germany’s Northern state of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern. Once too a Hanseatic fortress and then the primary port of the communist GDR, Rostock’s importance and population declined shortly after Reunification. Today the city has remodeled itself as a modern, high-tech regiopolis, but its historic Old Town and maritime air still draw crowds. The Neuer Markt center is a pleasant mix of Baroque and Brick Gothic with gabled 15th Century houses and excellent cathedrals. The seaside suburb of Warnemünde has an old fishing industry with rows of quaint fishermen’s cottages, wharves, and fish markets.

Lübeck

Lübeck
Lübeck
Once considered the “Queen of the Hanse” Lübeck was the most powerful and vociferous Hanseatic state. Close to the sea, the Old Town center sits on an Island, bounded by the Trave river. It has some of the finest Brick Gothic architecture in the world and with its narrow streets and lavish churches is UNESCO World Heritage listed. Lübeck has three major universities and it’s streets feel young and energetic. No longer a maritime force, the city is now famous for its marzipan industry and Hanseatic wine and can be reached by bus from Berlin in 3.5hrs.

Hamburg

Hamburg
Hamburg
Hamburg is Germany’s second largest city, with around 5 million people in the greater metropolitan area. As a former Free City and an important centre of Hanseatic trade and commerce, Hamburg has an artistic, cultural, and economic dynamism that rivals even Berlin. With more bridges and canals than Venice or Amsterdam combined, Hamburg is Europe’s second largest port. The characteristic Brick Expressionist warehouses that once stored coffee and cloth in Hafencity district now house cafes, bars and startups. After the almost complete destruction of the central Old Town by allied fire-bombing during WWII, the lovely Renaissance Town Hall and medieval churches have been painstakingly rebuilt. The rambling and infamous Reeperbahn red light district still shakes its gaudy tail feathers while the hip St Pauli is alive with fixie bikes and bars, novel stores and independent fashion lines. Hamburg can be reached directly from London or via a 3hr bus from Berlin.

Sylt

Sylt
Sylt

Our final destination is Germany’s most northern island, the 40 km long Sylt, at the border with Denmark, on the eastern side of Schleswig-Holstein. Celebrated for its unique geography Sylt is a slender island with a subtle kink. Red cliffs, sand-dune tussock and flat white beaches run the entire convex western Nordsee face. In the inner region are several small towns, with thatched roofed cottages and cheerful resorts. With a North Frisian and Danish past quite distinct from our previous highlights Sylt inhabitants speak a local dialect known as Söl’ring which is as unique and endearing as all the other butterflies and flowers that call this island home. Sylt can be reached by train in 5 hours from berlin or 3 from Hamburg.

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