Saturday 27 June 2015

Exploring Mount Nemrut: A Visitor's Guide

Mount Nemrut - Giant Heads
Mount Nemrut - Giant Heads
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The peak of Mount Nemrut (2,150m) is home to the fascinating funerary mound to King Antiochus I of the Kingdom of Commagene. On top of the actual mountain summit is a 50 m high man-made burial mound, underneath which Antiochus' tomb is concealed somewhere. On top of the mound are the spectacular terraces littered with the remnants of the giant statues that were once majestically lined up to celebrate Antiochus' own glory and the glory of the gods.

History

Man-made funerary mound
Man-made funerary mound
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During the days of the competing Roman and Parthian (Persian) Empires, this region found itself right on the border between the two giant rivals. Formerly part of the Roman Empire, Commagene and its governor Mithridates I declared independence. When Mithradates I died in 64 BC, his son Antiochus I took over the crown and took his tiny Kingdom's independence further, signing treaties with both Rome and the Parthians. It was actions such as these that led Antiochus to believe Commagene (and himself) to be more important than they actually were and eventually led to his downfall when he was deposed by the Romans in 38 BC.

The Site

The Site
The Site
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The most complete statuary are on the East Terrace although the statues have all lost their giant heads which now sit incongruously on the ground beside the bodies. The colossal figures of the gods face the main altar. In addition to eagle and lion representation the Greco-Persian deities here are Zeus-Oromasdes, Hercules-Verethragna-Artagnes-Ares, Apollo-Mithras-Helios-Hermes and Commagene-Tyche. Antiochus I himself is represented here as well. The statues are flanked by broken reliefs depicting Antiochus' linage. On the northern side the relief shows his Persian (paternal) ancestors while to the north the relief shows his Seleucid (maternal) ancestors.
On the West Terrace most of the statues are less well preserved but the heads have not suffered the same fate and are wonderfully lifelike and conserved. Here you can see the Lion Horoscope with its astral motifs symbolizing the deification of Antiochus I through the metamorphosis of king into star.

Visiting the Site

Mount Nemrut is 160 km from Kahta. There is a 600 m uphill walk from the car park to the summit. The site is open from sunrise to sunset. Note that during winter the mountain road is often blocked by snow.

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