For most visitors, heading to Turkey's southeast Anatolia region means one thing: a trip to the mighty stone heads of Mount Nemrut. But while the Nemrut statues of King Antiochus may be the main tourist attraction, the raw landscapes of steep plateau and mountains in this area are home to plenty more sightseeing opportunities. Particularly for those interested in Turkey's early history and traditional culture. Dıyarbakır shouldn't be missed, especially with its Old City district still ringed by centuries-old basalt walls. Smaller sites such as Old Malatya and Darende have a lost-in-time atmosphere that can't be beaten.
1 Mount Nemrut (Nemrut Daǧı)
The most famous of southeast Turkey's tourist attractions are the stately stone heads upon the peak of Mount Nemrut. Discovered in 1881 by a German engineer, the statues mark the funerary mound of King Antiochus of Commagene (64-34 BC) who had wilily turned this tiny portion of Anatolia into an independent kingdom between Rome and Persia. Later earthquakes knocked the 2 m high heads from the towering statues, and they now sit upon the ground. Most visitors come at sunrise or sunset when the stone heads glow in the golden light.
Location: Mt Nemrut National Park
- Read More:
- Exploring Mount Nemrut: A Visitor's Guide
2 Arsameia (Eski Kale)
This cult and burial site was the summer residence of the Commagnene rulers, founded in the 3rd century BC. In addition to the remains of steps and buildings on the summit plateau (with mosaics from the 2nd century BC) there are a number of reliefs and rock-chambers on the way up to the top. The first large stele relief depicts the god Mithras-Helios, while the middle relief shows the Commagnene King Mithridates and his son Antiochus I. From here there is a rock tunnel leading to a burial chamber. A further relief depicts Mithridates shaking hands with the demigod Hercules.
Location: Mt Nemrut National Park
3 Cendere Bridge
This well-preserved Roman bridge crosses the Cendere River (the ancient Chabinas River) at a point where the river emerges from an impressive gorge in the wide Kahta Valley. It was built between AD 198 and 200 by a Roman general stationed in Samsat (ancient Samosata) and dedicated to Septimus Severus, his wife Julia Domna and their sons Caracalla and Geta. According to an inscription, four Commagene towns financed the building.
Location: Mt Nemrut National Park
4 Karakuş
This Commagene tumulus was erected by Mithridates II (36-20 BC) for his mother Isias, sister Laodike, and niece Aka. Out of the original three pairs of columns, only four columns still survive. An eagle crowns the southernmost column and a bull tops the northeast column.
Location: Mt Nemrut National Park
5 Adıyaman and Kahta
Adıyaman is a bustling provincial centre that doesn't have much in the way of sights. In the Old Town visitors can see the ruins of the Hisn Mansur Fortress, which dates from the early Umayyad period and was later restored by the Abbasid Caliph Haroun al-Rachid (AD 789-809). Also in the Old Town is an interesting Islamic tomb, the Ebu-Zer Gaffer Türbesi. Kahta (35 km east) is even less endowed with sights, but it's the closest town to the tourist attractions of Mt Nemrut National Park so many visitors choose to stay there. About 30 km south of Adıyaman is the vast Atatürk Dam extending over an area of 817 sq km. The dam is a key element in a series of dams in the Tigris and Euphates Rivers known as the GAP Project.
6 Malatya
As Turkish history goes, Malatya is a new town since its centre is only 150 years old. For centuries this site was simply the garden suburb of Aspuzu, which serviced the population ofOld Malatya nearby. In the winter of 1838 Ottoman troops were billeted in Old Malatya and left it in ruins. When the population returned, they moved to Aspuzu and modern Malatya was born. There is an interesting Ethnography Museum on Simena Caddesi and the Malatya Museum(Fuzuli Caddesi) is worthwhile popping into for its exhibits from the Aslantepe excavations.
7 Aslantepe
Excavations here have uncovered the neo-Hittite city of Milidia as well as finds from later Assyrian domination. The ruins of a late Hittite era palace have been unearthed as well as large stone slabs inscribed with relief carvings, and monumental lion portals. There are excellent information panels at the site that explain its importance to archaeological knowledge.
Location: 6 km from Malatya
8 Old Malatya (Battalgazı)
The ruins of Old Malatya lie on the old road to Erzincan and Sivas. Surrounded by poplar trees and fruit orchards, this old walled city is highly atmospheric. You can see the remnants of theByzantine walls on the southern side, with defensive ditches, tower bastions and four gates still standing. The now partly buried Ulu Camii (mosque) was built in 1247 on the foundations of an older 7th century mosque. Inside you can pass through the galleried inner courtyard and the divan decorated with glazed tiles into the domed prayer room. The Yeni Camii nearby dates from the Seljuk era. In the northeast of the town stands Mustafa Paşa Hani, a well-preserved caravanserai founded between 1623 and 1640.
Location: 12 km from Malatya
9 Darende
Dominated by the medieval Zengibar Castle, the village of Darende is set along a river in a beautiful gorge where there are great rafting opportunities in the Tohma Canyon. As recently as 1840, it was still occupied by at least 40 houses but locals abandoned their hilltop perch in 1890. A Hittite stele of the god Sarruma has been found within the castle site.
100 km west of Malatya
10 Elbistan
The town of Elbistan is overlooked by the medieval fortifications of Kız Kalesi castle, 5 km to the west. The castle marks the position of former Elbestan-Kara (or Secret Elbistan). Finds here include a stone bowl belonging to a cult of sun-worshippers and Hittite era figurines of the goddess Anahita. Just 5 km northwest of town, upon the Elbistan plain, is the Karahüyük archaeological site. Archaeologists working at this Hittite settlement have unearthed many interesting finds including a memorial stele to a Hittite prince, which is now on display at Ankara's Museum of Anatolian Civilizations.
Location: 126 km west of Malatya
11 Afşın
Just to the west of the town of Afşın are the ancient ruins of Arabissos, which developed as the crossroads for two main trading routes from east to west. Also of interest here are the Seljuk period ruins which consist of a mosque, caravanserai and ribat. The ruined caravanserai is made up of an asymmetrical four-aisled winter hall with two separate sections. The mosque has a three-aisled prayer hall and flat roof, while the attached ribat has a maze of rooms and a typical Seljuk pointed-arch portal.
The Roman ruins of Castaballa can be found 15 km to the northeast. Due north of Afşın, on the old route to Kayseri stands the Seljuk Kuruhan (caravanserai) and, another 5 km along the road, the Seljuk castle of Hurman Kalesi (which simultaneously controlled three mountain passes).
Location: 130 km west of Malatya
12 Diyarbakır City Walls
Once a staging post on the ancient trading routes from Persia to the Mediterranean, the city ofDıyarbakır has managed to retain much of its historic charm. The most important remains in the city are the mammoth City Walls - which are incredibly well-preserved. Built of black basalt, the walls are 12 m high and up to 5 m thick. All but six of the original 78 towers along the length survive, along with four gates: the Harput Kapısı (north gate), Urfa Kapısı (west gate), Mardın Kapısı (south gate) and Yenikapı (east gate). On the southern side of the walls is the Nur Burcu Tower, embellished with reliefs and Seljuk inscriptions, and the Kici Burcu bastion with its five vaulted rooms.
13 Diyarbakır Old Town
With a bundle of lovely medreses and mosques lining a maze of winding alleyways, Dıyarbakır's walled Old Town is a wondrous place to explore. Don't miss the Ulu Camii (mosque) modelled on the Umayyad Mosque of Damascus and thought to occupy the site of a 5th century church. Above the main courtyard entrance you can see reliefs of lions and bulls while ancient columns and capitals are incorporated into the structure of the three-aisle prayer hall. Other interesting mosques in town include the lovely 12th century Hazreti Süleyman Mosque and the Nebi Mosque with its black-and-white stone banding.
The town once had a large Christian population and there are still some beautiful churches to be seen. The Meryem Ana Kilisesi (church) and recently restored Surpaǧab Kilisesi are two of the most interesting. To have a peek at the interiors of the many grand Dıyarbakır houses, head to the house of Turkish poet Cahit Sıtkı Tarancı (Ziya Gökalp Sokak), which is now a museum, or toEsma Ocak Evi where you can be shown around the interior rooms.
14 Tigris River Roman Bridge
This 10-arched Roman bridge has spanned the Tigris River since AD 512. The Marwanid Dynasty restored the bridge in 1065, and impressively the structure still stands.
Location: 3 km south of Dıyarbakır
Other Notable Attractions
Çermik
The medieval fortress of Çermik Kalesi stands guard over the town. Just to the south there are some very impressive rock formations in the limestone uplands of Devkan Tepesi.
Location: 60 km northwest of Dıyarbakır
Eǧil
Just southeast of the town of Eǧil, an ancient fort perches upon a steep rock high above the gorge of the upper Tigris River. It's thought to have been built sometime in the first millennium BC. There are also remains of rock tombs in the cliffs here. If conditions are right, late in the day, it is possible to make out a relief of Assyrian origin (dating to about 720 BC) on the fortress rock, depicting a god armed with an axe and sword.
Location: 50 km north of Dıyarbakır
Silvan
Silvan probably stands on the site of the old Armenian capital of Tigranocerta. The Selaheddin-i Ayyubi Mosque was built here in 1185, incorporating columns from a Byzantine basilica. It has an impressive entrance with a rosette frieze and reliefs.
Location: 100 km east of Dıyarbakır
Hekimhanı
The Seljuk Hekimhanı (caravanserai) stands in the small village of Hekimhan. The complex was founded by Alaeddin Kaykobad I's doctor and consists of a square summer courtyard in the centre of a three-aisled winter hall.
Location: 78 km north of Malatya
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