The mountainous and forested territory of Nagorno-Karabakh declared independence from Azerbaijan in 1992, however, is yet to gain international recognition. The region remains officially part of Azerbaijan, but can only be accessed from the Armenian side.
Travelling to Nagorno-Karabakh is surprisingly simple and the easiest way of entering the region is by taking the bus or a local marshrutka (taxi) from Armenia. At the makeshift border your passport is registered and you are requested to attend an address in the Nagorno-Karabakh capital Stepanakert in order to receive your visa.
The visa costs 3000 dram, equivalent to approximately €8/£6, and is processed within a few minutes. It is important to note that once your passport has been stamped by Nagorno-Karabakh or shows any evidence of a visit you will not be granted access into Azerbaijan, even if you have already been granted an Azerbaijani visa. If you plan to visit Azerbaijan after Nagorno-Karabakh be sure to let the consulate in Stepanakert aware of this as they can issue your stamp on a separate piece of paper.
Stepanakert
The capital city of Nagorno-Karabakh provides an ideal base for exploring the region, and is full of friendly locals who speak with pride about their history and culture. There is a large presence of young men in military uniform which can be unsettling, however, this is nothing to be concerned about and they are more than happy to point you in the direction of an attraction or place to eat.
flickr/Dave Chapman
Tatik and Papik
The main tourist attraction in Stepanakert lies on the western side of the road leading to the north and is a rock monument of an elderly Armenian man and woman known locally as ‘Tatik and Papik’. The monument is a representation of the mountain people of Karabakh. There are also many museums illustrating the history of the region, the largest being the Artsakh State Museum.
Shushi
Shushi is the historic capital of Karabakh and is accessible by microbus from Stepanakert. The long and violent past of this town has left many of the buildings in ruin, although there is currently an effort to restore the most important sites. An example of this restoration is the Ghazanchetsots Cathedral, which is a looming structure of pristine white and certainly stands out among the other buildings in the town.
Ghazanchetsots Cathedral
Kanach Jham
Other attractions in Shushi include Kanach Jham Church, Verkhiya Mosque and the city walls. In the town square there is a slogan painted above one of the buildings which reads ‘The Armenians only salvation lies in their unity’. The person responsible for this slogan is said to have been jailed for their efforts.
Agdam
This ghost-town was bustling with life only 15 years ago but is now completely deserted and has become known as the ‘Hiroshima of Azerbaijan’. Officially it is advised to steer clear of the city as it is still considered a war zone. The only way to get there is to find a taxi driver who is willing to take the risk and drive you there. It is possible that upon arrival in Agdam the military will stop you and request you turn back, however, if you manage a couple of hours there it is fascinating to stand in a town that was once a bustling hive of activity.
Other Destinations
There are several other fascinating towns to visit in Nagorno-Karabakh, each with its own slice of unique history. Hadrut contains monasteries dating back to the 13th and 14th Centuries, Martuni contains the important Amaras Monastery and the Martakert province is the home of the Gandzasar monastery and the beautiful Sarsang Reservoir.
flickr/Nina Stössinger
Gandzasar monastery
Another destination worth pencilling into your trip is Vank. This small town is located near the Gandzasar Monastery and is famous for its quirky hotel with a zoo which is shaped like a boat, and wall of license plates.
Safety
The territory is generally very safe to visit as long as you avoid conflicted areas and avoid taboos. Venturing east of the Mardakert-Martuni Highway into the ceasefire line should be avoided and when hiking keep in mind that the area is heavily populated by bears and wolves.
The local people are extremely friendly and helpful, with Russian and Armenian the spoken languages. When socialising with the locals it is best to avoid any discussion relating to Azerbaijan, as this is still an extremely sensitive subject in the region.
No comments:
Post a Comment